- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Mark Topic as New
- Mark Topic as Read
- Float this Topic for Current User
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Printer Friendly Page
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Highlight
- Report Inappropriate Content
How to attach gate frame to brickwork?
Hello Members,
The Wood screws dislocated from the wall. Should the gap be filled again with cement, drilled and fixed. (or) any alternative fixtures are available to prevent this from happening again. Reckon due to the wind pressure the door is frequently getting pushed for above event to happen. Could you please list the materials for resolving this.
Intent to replace below lock mechanism with door lock that can be accessed from both sides of the gate. Can you please propose any suitable two way door lock and ways to close the holes in the gate (if that is exposed) after fixing the two way lock.
By the way, please propose suitable paint and tools (I'm paining for the first time) to touch up the scratches that were left over due to be movement of the dislocated gate.
Door Lock
Thank you.
MM
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Highlight
- Report Inappropriate Content
Re: Side Door
Morning @nagumuthu
"By the way, managed to get the post at same level"
Well done. Now that the posts are level - where are the pre-existing holes in the post now in relation to the brick wall? Mortar or sold brick?
This new height will now require latch position adjustments later?
How wide is this gate? Weight - you mentioned it was hard to lift?
Is the post 40mm X 40mm?
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Highlight
- Report Inappropriate Content
Re: Side Door
Hello @Noyade
Thanks. Previous drilled holes are now sealed with mortar gap filler.
The new holes are at the centre of the brick.
I will fix dual side gate lock after fixing the gate to the post. Thus latch adjustment is not required.
I will weigh the gate and measure the post back home and post it later today.
Neverthess, the post carried the gate for some time of 3 years and no bend is noticed in the post. Reckon it can carry the weight of the gate.
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Highlight
- Report Inappropriate Content
Re: Side Door
Thanks @EricL.
Waiting for the rain to settle down to
pickup the tools.
Will provide an update.
Thanks for the confidence on Dyna.
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Highlight
- Report Inappropriate Content
Re: Side Door
That's OK @nagumuthu , you seem to have it under control.
Looking back at all your photos - it appears to me there was only ever one Tek screw holding the post to the wall, holding the counterweight of the gate?
They rebated the metal further down, to accommodate a concrete lip in the slab? - which again appears to have failed/bent once that Tek screw above gave way.
This is in miniature - but I suggest that with whatever anchorage system you go with - place another closely below the top anchor. There are plenty of tricks getting the nut onto the Dynabolt thread through the outer post hole - should you go that way. Cheers!
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Highlight
- Report Inappropriate Content
Re: Side Door
Hi @nagumuthu , my main concern regarding those dynabolts is that they may be too short at 75mm. How thick or the posts? There needs to be an adequate length protruding through to go at least 50mm into the brick to prevent them (or any fastener) breaking the wall of the brick by putting all the load too close to the surface.
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Highlight
- Report Inappropriate Content
Re: Side Door
Hi @TedBear
I believe the 'plan' (or I thought so) - is an outer hole is drilled, as is an inner hole - and the nut is attached to the dybabolt (already positioned in the brick) on the inside of the post - as per @MitchellMc 's diagrams/post on Page 1 and as per the original tradesman's attempt. No need for the anchor to accommodate the post's width.
Another old example - this time a coach screw into wood via a hole in steel square tube. A few cobwebs included. 😉
The only reason I asked about the post width above, was to look at the length of long sockets.
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Highlight
- Report Inappropriate Content
Re: Side Door
Hello @Noyade
There were 2 wooden screws ( I assume you call them as Tek Screw) holding the post to the brick wall. One on top and another on middle zone. Both of them screwed to the mortar.
The bent ( due to weakened rebate material) is rectified now by bending back with F clamp and a steel pipe.
I will place one Dynabolt on top, another in middle and possibly one close to ground (if top two does not provide enough support. To take note, bottom post is guided by concrete square hole)
There shouldn’t be any nut to Dynabolt, as it is hammered to the brick and tightened on its head for better gripness, if I’m right to say that.
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Highlight
- Report Inappropriate Content
Re: Side Door
Hello @TedBear
I will measure the thickness of the post this evening. In eyesight it is within / around 2mm.
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Highlight
- Report Inappropriate Content
Re: Side Door
Ahhh...I see now.
"There shouldn’t be any nut to Dynabolt" - @nagumuthu
I was thinking off a different variety of Dynabolt that uses a nut.
Please carry on.
I shall cease and desist. 😁
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Highlight
- Report Inappropriate Content
Re: Side Door
@Noyade @TedBear @EricL @Neo19 @MitchellMc
I had difficulty in transferring the centre of 20mm drilled hole in the post to opposite side.
Used tapes and trysquare for transferring the top edge of the circle and find the centre thereafter.
Is there a tool to mark the centre of the hole easily to the opposite side, as I need to drill 10mm only on that side, just for dynabolt to enter from that side to hold the brick.
Current transfer method through pencil and trysquare takes time and not accurate.

Why join the Bunnings Workshop community?
Workshop is a friendly place to learn, get ideas and find inspiration for your home improvement projects
Subject | Author | Posted | |
---|---|---|---|
April 2024 | |||
October | |||
July 2024 | |||
July 2022 | |||
April |