How to fix water leak around door?

[jennimac]

We have large sliding doors to external patio.

We have traced leaks back to both sides of sliding doors where we can see the builder has left gaping holes.  There seems to be no flashing or waterproof barrier - just holes, which has rotted the timber and is leaking downstairs.

We have removed plasterboard and archs/skirting to find these holes.  

Now, how do I make it water tight as have limited access.  

Below to the right of the yellow handled screwdriver is the larger of the 2 holes - you can see daylight through it.  There is a smaller hole where the screwdriver has gone through.

Hole is quite big 50-60mm high.  

Outside there is an air gap at bottom of external wall cladding of similar height.  Water is getting straight in.  

Waterproofing is only on part of this section (from the left corner up to where screwdriver is).  

 

 

 

 

[EricL]

Hello @jennimac 

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about your external patio door.

In order to give our members a better idea of the damage, would it be possible for you to post a photo of the outside frame of your door where the water has entered? This will give us an idea of how big the damage is and if it is still possible to repair it using D.I.Y. methods. Looking at the photos you posted, it appears that the damage is quite extensive and might require the services of a builder. It is difficult to gauge how far the rot has extended into the frame without removing the door itself. 

Once we see the photos of the outside section, we'll be in better position to make recommendations on how to proceed.   

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

[jennimac]

I will try and take some over the weekend but I don't think it will show much as the Hebel cladding protrudes about 10cm forward of this framing. It may just result in a dark image.  There is no damage to the outside frame.  The pics provided are at the back of the air gap under the cladding. In the pic to the right of the hole is the only affected timber. 

The large square piece to the left of the screwdriver is a steel beam.  It appears to have no damage.  

I cannot seal the air gap under the cladding as it is a requirement to be there.  I just need to seal the hole. Timber damage did not cause that hole, it's an actual gap left by a very incompetent builder.  Water ingress has then damaged the door frame timber as seen in the pic. 

[EricL]

Hello @jennimac 

We look forward to seeing the photos and thank your for giving us the extra details about your door frame. I'm wondering if the builder accidentally left this gap while they were putting the door in. Using self-expanding foam might be an alternative to covering the hole, but it might require something more robust.

Let me call on our experienced members @Nailbag, @Dave-1 and @AlanM52 for their recommendations.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

[Dave-1]

Good Evening @jennimac 

Mmm maybe the gap was left when they fitted the door and then the cladding covered over that section so they used timber trim to cover the interior?

Whichever way you do have an issue, the hole I thought of a piece of timber slotted in and sealed but then I saw the base of the stud. That gives me some concern over what level of damage the stud has and other tmberwork behind it. 

The timber trim base has rotted away, and the stud looks like it may also have some rot. I would suggest a carpenter or builder may be the way to go to make sure the fix is done to code. 

There should be some sort of flashing under the door itself I think and if its not there then anything you do will be cosmetic. A builder/carpenter will know what should be there.

Dave

[Nailbag]

Hi @jennimac 

The damage is relatively substantial and as such there will be a number of various medium to high-level skillsets required to repair and make good the walls. This includes plastering and carpentry plus what ever the external cladding is. As such I would consider getting several quotes from potentially a handyman service that can show experience in all these areas.

Nailbag

[AlanM52]

Hi Jenni,

I am dumfounded that you have been left with that situation.

@Dave-1 mentioned door flashing and if there is none (or not installed correctly) that is your starting point.

I also suggest a carpenter/builder and you may well be advised that the door frame needs to be removed for remedial work in particular that left stud and the door frame reinstalled into a correctly spaced opening that has all the appropriate waterproofing and flashing.

Cheers

[jennimac]

Thank you all for your help.   first pic is the outside where the Hebel thickness means you can't get right at the frame externally

 we have put flashing tape outside for now with all the rain we have been having to prevent further leaking.

 this is a pic taken under the airgap

When the Reno was done the inside /outside tiling was done then the doors put on top, at a later date.  I have looked back at images taken during build and can see waterproofing around and up to steel beam.  So it's like the framing timber has just been fitted with no protection and has rotted over time with water damage. 

Priority 1 is fixing the gap.  - then waterproof. 

If I were to attach a strip of external cladding product to the outside of the framing like cement sheet at the back of the airgap, covering the hole, then waterproof over the top of the cement sheet and tile under the gap.  Then foam from behind to fill gap at back.  A carpenter can replace trim.  

What products do Bunnings recommend for foam, waterproof and sheeting.

[JacobZ · Accepted solution]

Hi @jennimac,

Access to the outside of the frame is going to be the toughest part, to the point where I don't think fibre cement sheeting would be your best option.

Personally, I think it would be better to use something like this Brutus 50 x 75mm x 3.0m Jazz Building Moulding Flashing because you would be able to angle it through the gap, then rotate it up. These mouldings are commonly used to waterproof the seams between the wall and floor in showers, so they are pretty much perfect for this application. You can use Liquid Nails to hold it in place, and if you have access, drive an 8G x 30mm Galvanised Button Head Stitching Screw through the angle into the framing. If you drive any screws in, make sure you have access to waterproof over them afterwards, as it will need to be coated to prevent water from getting in through the screw hole.

You can then use Bastion Exterior Waterproof Membrane to waterproof the angle and a foam filler such as this Sika 500ml Boom Expanding Foam Filler to fill the gap.

Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

[jennimac]

thank you for all of your help.  I think I will try the bastion moulding flashing - great tip!  As well as waterproof instructions for permanent gap fill and to keep any water out from the air gap.

I wanted to let you know I had a small win and potentially stopped the leak.  i tested many areas once the silver flasing tape was covering the gap.  only when water was applied to the fixed door panel itself did it leak downstairs.  See pic below.  heavy rain once so far and no leak.  I think the water was coming out the side of the aluminium frame and rotted the timber jamb.  Water had pooled inside the silver flashing tape as not able to escape to external drain with the fall of the flooring due to tape covering the air gap hole area.  I have tested with water again myself in these areas and no leak.  Now hopefully i just need to waterproof the edge of the frame as a back up under the air gap as well as the flashing etc as instructed.  so a little silicone fixed the issue thank goodness and prevents water entry inside the base of the frame.  All water holes are clear and unblocked but water does not come out of these holes.  Perhaps a bad installation.   Although this window/door company is notorius for issues gaps leaks etc.  

I have also used builders bog to fill hole caused by water damage.  No water ingress after testing.  The steel beam is holding up the roof - as I have checked the engineering drawings - so just need the cosmetic repairs now to put everything back - so off to bunnings for supplies!

leak occurred where white arrows are pointing. I used sika flex hc1 i think to fill the gap where the white lines are.