How to repair leaning timber fence?

[smhasnain]

 

I’m looking for some friendly advice regarding a repair project at home in Roxburgh Park. I have a timber fence that’s approximately 25 years old, and a section of it has started leaning inward (please see the attached photo for reference).

I’d like to push this section back into alignment and secure it properly so it remains upright. Could you please advise on the most effective and economical DIY method to achieve this?

A few specific questions I have:

• Will I need any external support or bracing to realign and hold the fence in place?

• Would installing an external rail help reinforce this section?

• Some of the rails I already have (not visible in the photo) are quite brittle and don’t seem strong enough to hold screws or nails.

• A few palings also need re-nailing, but the timber is very hard and difficult to work with using a hammer.

Could you kindly recommend the materials and tools I would need to carry out this job efficiently and on a budget? And if it seems too challenging for a DIYer, do you think it would be better to engage a professional?

Thanks so much in advance for your guidance.

Warm regards,

[EricL]

Hello @smhasnain 

Thanks for reaching out with your fence repair question especially with such a clear description of the situation in Roxburgh Park. Given the age of your timber fence and the fact that it’s leaning inward, you’re likely dealing with a combination of worn or rotting posts, brittle rails, and weathered palings, which is common for fences around the 25-year mark. Here’s some friendly, practical guidance for tackling this project efficiently and economically.

First, yes—you will likely need some form of temporary bracing or external support to push the leaning section upright and keep it steady while you reinforce it. A simple but effective method is to use a metal star picket driven into the ground at an angle, then temporarily brace the fence back to that using timber offcuts or steel strap and screws. Once the section is upright and stable, you can address the longer-term reinforcement.

Installing an external rail (often called a "face rail") across the leaning section is a smart move. Look for treated pine fence rails, ideally 75x38mm or similar. Screw or bolt them into the existing posts (if the posts are still sound) or into newly added support rails using galvanised bugle screws for strength. This will add rigidity to the structure and help hold everything in place. If the existing rails are too brittle to take fasteners as you mentioned, it’s often best to replace them altogether rather than try to patch them.

For palings that need re-nailing, and especially when dealing with dense or aged hardwood, a cordless impact driver and galvanised decking screws will make the job much easier and more secure than hammer and nails. Consider screws around 40–50mm in length. Pre-drilling can also help prevent splitting if the timber is very dry and hard.

Here’s a list of recommended tools and materials:

• Star pickets or timber posts for temporary bracing
   
• Treated pine fence rails 
   
• Galvanised bugle screws or coach screws
   
• Cordless drill or impact driver
   
• Drill bit (slightly smaller than your screws)
   
• Galvanised decking screws (40–50mm)
   
• Replacement palings (if any are rotting or broken)
   
• Spirit level and clamps (optional, for easier alignment)

If the fence posts themselves are rotting at the base or feel loose when pushed, the issue may go deeper—and in that case, you might be better off replacing the affected section. For a DIYer with some basic tools and patience, this repair is doable. However, if you find multiple posts are failing or the fence continues to lean despite reinforcement, it may be more cost-effective and safer to call in a local fencing contractor for a partial rebuild.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

[smhasnain]

Hi Eric,

Thank you so much for your prompt and detailed response — I really appreciate it.

I forgot to mention earlier that unfortunately, my next-door neighbour isn’t very cooperative, and all the fence posts are located on their side of the property. As a result, I don’t have access to check or reinforce the posts. I can only work from my side of the fence, which doesn’t have any posts.

I’m sorry if this is a basic question, but could you please explain what a metal star picket is and what it looks like? Also, what kind of steel straps and screws would be best to use in this situation? If you happen to have a video that shows how to fix a leaning timber fence, I’d be very grateful if you could share it.

Since I don’t have any existing posts on my side, how can I go about installing a new rail to support the palings? I’ve heard of galvanised bugle screws and decking screws, but I’m not sure what they look like — would you be able to provide some links or examples?

Overall, I’d be really thankful if you could guide me through how to fix this inward leaning fence, given that I don’t have access to the posts on the other side of the fence.

Thanks again, and I look forward to your response.

Warm regards,

[EricL]

Hello @smhasnain 

My apologies for not turning on the links, if you'll kindly look back at the post, you'll see that I've placed all the links in place. 

This does present a bit of a dilemma as most of the repairs that need to be carried out are on the other side. Perhaps when visiting your neighbour, you can bring a few cans of cold refreshment to improve their mood. If you still can't gain access to the other side, your only choice is to do the repairs on your side. The drawback of course is that it will not look very nice, and you won't be able to address all the issues of the fence. 

You could probably push the fence back up and use a piece of timber at the corner to brace or keep it in place, but if the rail is not properly anchored it will begin to sag downwards, and the rail will act as a weight instead of a support. 

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendation

If you have any other question we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

[Nailbag]

Hi @smhasnain 

It looks like the last two posts are the issue here. First step is to check the neighbour hasn't got anything leaning on it as that needs to be removed.

Understanding your neighbour is not being corporative, then this is how I go about fixing the fence long term from. your side, but you will need a helper.

• Using a 2.4m length of 70mm x 35mm treated pine, cut 300mm off the end, 
• Fix the off-cut about 1m from the end of the fence with 75mm batten screws in line with the top fence rail
• Cut a small notch at the end of the remaining timber to be used as a prop.
• Have a helper or two push the fence back up as straight as possible and then tuck the notch end of the prop in to the rail and the other end into the ground. If you can get the fence to lean slight backwards even better.
• Drive a star picket in to the ground and use another batten screw through one of its holes in to the prop.
• Install a new post in the corner concreted into the ground with batten screws going through the back in to the 3 rails
• Install a new post near the end of the neighbouring fence. Drive batten screws inline wear the rails are on the other side.
• Dig away the ground wear the old posts are and fill with rapid-set concrete
• Remove the prop.

Not a hard job, but not the easiest for a beginner DIY'r and you will need a few tools. You probably won't get a fencer in to do that small job, but a good local handyman could do the job easy. It's about 4-5hrs for someone on their own in labour plus materials.

Hope this helps. Nailbag

[Dave-1]

Good Morning @smhasnain 

It is harder to repair a fence when the neighbour isnt keen or not interested, I like @EricL's suggestion and list of tools required but really @Nailbag has pretty much listed the way I would approach it as well from your side (love is drawing), no interaction with the neighbour really needed. Push a Fence back up vertical can be a little heavy going so a second hand would make it easier or use two props so you can push a little, prop then push and use the other prop type deal.

Dave

[smhasnain]

Hi Eric, Dave, and Nailbag,

Thank you all so much for your time and the valuable advice you’ve shared — I truly appreciate your support. A special thanks to you, Nailbag, for taking the time to create and share the drawing. It really helped simplify things for someone like me who’s still learning the ropes. Your help and encouragement mean a lot.

Nailbag, you kindly suggested the following:

• Install a new post in the corner, concreted into the ground, with batten screws going through the back into the three rails.
• Install a new post near the end of the neighbouring fence, and drive batten screws in line where the rails are on the other side.

I’m a little confused about the second point — when you mention “the end of the neighbouring fence,” could you please clarify what you mean by “neighbouring fence”?

Also, the ground in that area is quite hard, so digging a hole might be a bit of a challenge. Could you please advise how deep the hole should be and what size & material post would be suitable?

Alternatively, would it be okay to hammer a 30 cm star picket into the ground and the rest of the star picket (abive ground) screw it to one of the nearby palings and rails instead of installing a full post?

Apologies if my questions seem a bit basic — I’m still learning as a DIYer, and I really value your guidance.

Thanks again!

Warm regards,

[EricL]

Hello @smhasnain 

Let me tag @Nailbag to make them aware of your questions. I'll let Nailbag explain his idea in regards to your fence repair. The star picket is only a temporary prop and can't be used on a permanent basis. If buried into the soil it will eventually sink, and your fence will be leaning again. It would be best to follow Nailbag's suggestion of putting in new fence posts. If the soil is a bit tough, I recommend hiring a For Hire: Post Hole Digger - 4hr to dig through the soil for you. You can also use a Mumme 1800mm Pit Bar to remove any impediments that may be present in the soil such as rocks or roots.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

[Nailbag]

Hi @smhasnain 

You're very welcome and please don't apologise for seeking clarity and for being a newbie DIY'r. We all started somewhere.

The end of the leaning fence where it meets the back neighbouring fence. The light coloured squares indicate the position of the two new posts.

Star pickets won't support the fence at all, they will bend under the weight. Posts need to be min 1/3rd into the ground and this is the post you would need. Unfortunately digging post holes isn't often a very easy job and one I never like to do myself with my aging body parts. You could hire a post hole digger, but they can be very aggressive to use especially if you stake solid objects like rocks or tree roots. Plus you need to dig the holes up against the fence, so that wouldn't work. I use one of these pincers and a sharp shovel.

Start with the shovel and don 't dig the hole to wide or you will need more concrete. I sharpen the edge of my shovel with an angle grinder when the digging gets hard as it's getting old too. Adding water and letting it soak in will help soften hard ground.

Your option as I mentioned earlier is to get a handyman in, even to get a quote or two. 

Nailbag

[AlanM52]

Basically the same approach as @Nailbag except I would do the face rail thing because it's likely screws won't hold in rotting rails.

Notch the posts about 500mm down to accept the rail.

At the end drop the rail down into the post notches and remove the brace.

One screw either end will prevent the rail moving or sliding sideways.

Cheers