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Hello folks, I'd love advice on where to start here. These gutters look reasonably new but one section seems to be fitted incorrectly, actively causing rot, and all fascia corners have historical damage that I wouldn't mind improving aesthetically and perhaps structurally to support gutter. The gutters in the past had not been kept clear of debris but going forward will be. Refitting the problem section is one thing, but what should be done at same time? The barge boards seem to be good condition away from the gutter so replacing seems overkill, but tricky to replace just the end bits... should I consider colorbond wrapping? All thoughts appreciated, I'm very new to this stuff.
Hello @nagemi
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about your fascia.
Looking at the photos you posted, I propose having the ends of the fascia modified so that it does not become a water stop or a bridge for water to run through. I don't think its necessary to have the fascia to go under the gutters and under the roof tiles. For corner one, I suggest cutting the extended end of the fascia so that it ends just under the lip of the tile. Extend the gutter so that it catches the water runoff of the roof corner.
For corner two, I recommend shortening the gutter so that it ends with the corner of the roof and linking PVC pipes to the steel pipe outlet that is currently flowing into the gutter. For corner three and four all that's needed is to trim and tidy so that none of the fascia's are under the gutter. Since this is an involved repair, I suggest engaging the services of a builder who can carry out these modifications and perhaps add more ideas on how to protect the fascia ends from rot.
Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Good Evening @nagemi
There are a few points to deal with 
all doable but does seem daunting. I like @EricL's list and approach for sure.
My mum had the same issue with her barge board (not sure of the name but am presuming that the outer edge board is it )
My carpenter friend gave her two options, replace the whole board at $$$ or cut a new segmant and join it to the old part after the rot had been cut. Less $$ and he favoured that one. My mum decided the cheaper option. It looks ok but you can tell a segmant has been changed, if you can lay your hands on the same width and height of timber it may be an easier option over replacemnt of the lot.
With the tiles laid the way they are it looks like it could be helping out with the water running down the barge board and helping it rot. Flashing over the top along the edge could help out, just trying to figure out how, you could double the width of a barge board and then the flashing would sit square but not sure how it would look.
Am I mistaken but I can only see one downpipe across the whole front? I was thinking before I counted that a couple more down pipes may help with extracting water from the gutters and then I counted.
Dave
First of all, thank you for your replies. Having read a number of other posts in this forum where you've contributed, I was secretly hoping I would also get the Eric-Dave-Nailbag trifecta. The whole is greater than the sum of its parts
@EricL This is a clever list but yes I'd say beyond my willingness to DIY. I will definitely be engaging a builder and/or plumber. After reading your suggestion to shorten the gutter near corner 2, it makes me wonder why it was done like that in the first place -- the unnecessary corner has added a point of failure.
@Dave-1 You're correct that there's just one downpipe across the front. You made me realise I should observe the gutters "under load" on a rainy day to get a better idea of what's necessary.
@Nailbag Indeed I hope to live here long-term. You seem to favour replacing the boards entirely -- what reasons would there be to take this path rather than the approach suggested by Eric? And if I had the boards replaced, should I have them wrapped at the same time (or rather than replace them, have the existing boards wrapped)?
Thanks again in advance folks.
Hi @nagemi
So far from the information provided each line of guttering has issues from leaking to falling the wrong way. To correct the fall the guttering needs to be removed, brackets adjusted and refitted. This is an ideal time to replace the facias they are connected to. Even if only showing minor signs of rot, prevention is cheaper now than later.
The side facias are showing significant signs of rot. Some contributing to age, lack of regular maintenance and water damage. Again its an investment to replace than repair, then repair then repair then replace.
Wrapping in colourbond old timbers is a cosmetic fix, not a structural one. Installing new facia and then wrapping it, won't match the historical look of the home and a double up of materials. Installing new quality timber facias, properly painted and maintained will serve the same purpose.
These are all projects best suited to a registered builder and plumber as first posted. But you can do this in stages due to budgeting concentrating on the worst affected areas first.
Some additional comments below.
Nailbag.
