What is a power point's maximum load?

[Else]

How can I work out the maximum load for a power point so I know which appliances can be used at the same time, without problem?

[MikeTNZ]

Hi @R4addZ,
Circuit-breakers (like most circuit protection devices) work on the idea of I²T,that is the square of the current multiplied
by the time that that overload current flows, the higher the current flow, the shorter the time that it takes to operate the circuit
protection device.

Having a circuit-breaker trip at it's rated current, is not helpful at all, especially with inductive loads like lighting transformers,
motors in appliances like fridges, air conditioning equipment, there has to be some sort of "lag" in the operation of these devices,
so that it allows these things to actually start and run up to speed.

In your example of 3 x 2000W heaters, I find it hard to believe that this would be a real-world thing,
having all three of these heaters all on the same circuit, if that were the case, that is really poor planning on the part of the person
that set this up to be like that.
A plug in Wok should not draw anymore than the maximum 2400W available from a standard 10A socket-outlet, should it need a higher rated circuit than that, it would need to be a dedicated circuit of 15A or 20A, run from the switchboard with it's own circuit-breaker and socket-outlet.

I worked in the UK for 5-6 years back in the 1990's and I'm quite conversant as to how things are done there, first off, the ring main is
fed by a 32A fuse or circuit-breaker to both ends, with 13A socket-outlets.
The thing that allows circuit protection is the size of the ceramic fuse in each BS1363 plug, this can be anything up to a maximum of 13A, because that is what the rating of the plug is. 
This is what we call in the electrical trade as "discrimination", meaning that the fuse closest to the fault will operate, instead of the
circuit protection in the switchboard operating first, which makes fault-finding a lot harder.
The Ring circuit is on it's way out over there with Electricians replacing Ring circuits with Radial circuits during rewires.
Also gone is the old "3-plating" lighting system with myriad junction boxes, all lighting cables are switch-looped, not ceiling looped,
which again, makes fault-finding easier.

[R4addZ]

Hi @MikeTNZ 

Thanks for the comprehensive reply. The 3 x 2KW exaple is because I built about 4 years ago and the whole house is fed by only 2 spurs so say 2 bedrooms and 1 living area on one and its approaching bed timeand you are in the living room keeping warm and want to warm up the bedrooms before going to bed. So I think it's possible to have that scenario in the real world. However, that said I just checked and the fuses on mine are only 16 amp so I can't even put two heaters on at the same time!

As with everything it comes down to cost, a ring main (or loop) is more reliable but more expensive so the radial whilst less reliable is cheaper and so is the option that is gravitated towards.