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Hi all,
Want some opinions on this Sir Walter Buffalo lawn. Starting the spring reno.
I've included a few photos of different parts of the lawn.
Is this dead material on top considered thatch? Should I remove it?
Thanks!
Hi @mjwalsh,
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. We're really pleased to have you join us.
Your lawn is looking great to me!
How high and "spongy" is it? When was the turf originally laid? Or when was the last time it was de-thatched? And what's your current watering and feeding regime?
Please note that a couple of our resident Bunnings D.I.Y. experts are taking a well-earned break at the moment, so there might be a bit of a delay before one can get back to you with their thoughts on the best approach for your lawn. In the meantime, let me tag @homeinmelbourne and @Adam_W for their advice.
Jason
Not very high or spongy and it was dethached last summer so it's probably fine.
Was just wondering if any of that dead grass on the top should be removed (shown in the other photos). Another photo above showing the height and condition.
At this stage it's had a low mow and good watering/fertilise today to kick off spring.
Hi @mjwalsh,
The dead grass on top is just older grass. Coming out of winter, Buffalo tends to have this. This material starts to sink into the lawn, and that becomes thatch.
Your lawn currently just needs some fertiliser. However, you could dethatch and scarify it, but it's a big process, and your lawn will take a couple of seasons to recover fully. At this stage, if it hasn't become spongey underfoot, I would just fertilise and enjoy your lawn.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Hello @jo94
You are doing the right thing by paying attention to your lawn’s health and timing maintenance carefully. Knowing when to dethatch makes a big difference to how well your grass bounces back.
The best time to dethatch your lawn is in late spring or early summer, when the grass is in its peak growing season and can recover quickly from the stress. This timing is especially important for warm season grasses like Kikuyu or Buffalo, which respond well to active growth periods. It is best to avoid cooler months, as recovery will be slow, and to steer clear of the intense heat of mid-summer, which can cause unnecessary damage.
You will know it is time to dethatch if the thatch layer of dead material is thicker than about 1.5 cm (1/2 inch) and the lawn feels spongy underfoot. Even then, it is important to only dethatch when truly necessary, as the process is quite stressful for the grass and should not be done too often. I also suggest having a look at this featured project - Lawn renovation by @homeinmelbourne. It will give you a general idea on how to dethatch your lawn.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
@EricL thank you for your response, this is how my lawn is currently. We moved into this home in December. Its high and low in some places and cloudy in some.
Hello @jo94
Thank you for sharing those photos of your lawn. It appears to me that some parts are thick while others are still thin. It's either that or you've cut lawn too low and it makes it appear that the thatch is thick. There is a good tip on the discussion I posted in my last response - Renovate lawn in the growing season (34°C Rule: Add your low and high degree temperature and if it’s above 34°C consistently, then it’s warm enough to do a lawn renovation). We are currently getting to the end of January and will have about three more months before the temperature starts to get cooler.
Conservatively speaking, there might be enough time to do it and on the condition that there are not too many storms that will pass our way.
Let me call on our experienced members @Remarka6le, @homeinmelbourne and @Adam_W for their recommendations.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Hello @jo94
Heat stress will do that to lawns pretty fast, especially with a few hot days in a row. Don’t panic though, most warm-season and even cool-season grasses can bounce back if the roots are still alive.
For now, the most important thing is watering properly. Deep, infrequent watering is key. You want the water to soak down into the root zone rather than just wetting the surface. Early morning watering is best because it reduces evaporation and fungal issues. If you’ve been giving it light, frequent water, switch to fewer but longer sessions.
Avoid mowing too low while it’s stressed. Let the grass stay a bit longer than usual so it can shade the soil and protect the roots from more heat. Also make sure your mower blades are sharp, as blunt blades tear the grass and make heat damage worse.
Hold off on fertiliser for the moment. Feeding during extreme heat can burn already stressed grass. Once temperatures settle and you see some recovery, then a light application of a suitable lawn fertiliser can help it green up again.
If the soil is very hard or compacted, gentle aeration can help water penetrate better, but don’t be too aggressive while it’s struggling. In really bare or dead patches, you may need to topdress lightly with soil and overseed or re-turf once the heat eases.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
