How to restore a timber benchtop

[Nailbag]

Difficulty: Beginner

Timber benchtops add warmth, character and timeless style to any kitchen. But the timber can suffer from everyday wear and tear over time.

This step-by-step guide shows how to restore your timber benchtop and keep it looking its best for years to come. 

The same techniques are suitable for timber benchtops in the bathroom and laundry.

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Steps

Step 1

Choose a food-safe oil.

Oil or varnish protects the wood from drying, cracking and moisture damage. It also helps enhance the appearance of the timber by bringing out the natural grain and helping to resist stains.

It is important to use an oil or varnish that is classified as “food safe” when treating a wooden kitchen benchtop. Food-grade oils are non-toxic and safe for contact with food, ensuring food safety. They also create a water-resistant barrier that helps prevent the growth of mould and bacteria.

For this project I used Cabot’s Benchtop Clear, a water-based, low-odour fast-drying oil specifically formulated as being safe to use on wooden kitchen benchtops. Once fully cured it’s resistant to cleaning chemicals, oils and low heat from hot cups and mugs. However, please note that it will not withstand heat from hot saucepans.

Step 2

Clean and prepare the timber surface.

Since we’re restoring a previously coated wooden benchtop, it’s important to begin by thoroughly cleaning the surface with a coat of Cabot’s Floor Clean. Despite its name, this product is highly effective for prepping oil-coated timber, as it removes built-up grease and grime. Even if deep sanding is required, cleaning first helps prevent sticky sawdust from clogging the sandpaper. Be sure to follow the recommended dilution and application instructions on the label for best results.

Step 3

Sand out scratches and fill marks.

Once the surface is completely dry, begin removing light scratches and marks using 240-grit sandpaper wrapped around a cork sanding block. Always sand in the direction of the grain, and change the sandpaper frequently as it clogs. This helps ensure a smooth, even finish without cross-grain scratches.

Deeper scratches and burn marks require more effort. For cracks and gouges, fill the damage with a natural wood-tone putty. If the wood has deep stains or burn marks, you may need to sand more aggressively to fully remove them. A powered sander such as a random orbital sander with 120-grit paper can speed up this process. While orbital sanders are an option, they tend to leave more noticeable swirl marks that require extra hand sanding to remove.

When using a powered sander, keep the sanding base flat and work evenly across the entire benchtop. Avoid tilting the sander or lingering too long in one spot to prevent low spots. After powered sanding, switch to hand sanding with 180–240 grit paper. Again, sand only in the direction of the grain and maintain even pressure to avoid over-sanding.

Another tip is that fine swirl marks from powered sanders can be hard to detect. To preview the final finish, wipe the surface with a damp cloth. This temporarily highlights imperfections and sanding marks. Let it dry fully before continuing. Repeat this process as needed until all swirl marks are gone.

    

Step 4

Remove sawdust for a clean finish.

The next step is to thoroughly remove all sawdust from the benchtop in preparation for oiling. Begin by wiping down the entire surface with a clean, slightly damp cloth. Alternatively, you can use a workshop vacuum fitted with a soft brush head, just be careful not to scratch the timber.

To ensure the surface is completely dust-free, follow up with a tack cloth. These special cloths are treated with a sticky resin or wax that effectively traps fine dust particles, leaving the surface clean and smooth—ideal for oiling or painting.

 

Step 5

Apply timber oil for a lasting finish.

Use masking tape to protect all adjoining surfaces, such as walls, sinks, and cooking appliances. Opt for high-quality masking tape on appliances, as it provides better edge sealing to prevent the oil from bleeding through. Premium tapes can be left in place longer without leaving a sticky residue when removed.

Before opening the can, don’t shake it as this causes bubbles. Instead stir thoroughly with a paint stirrer before and during use.

For small to medium sized benchtops, you can use a good quality fine-haired paint brush. For larger benchtops, you can apply the oil with a short nap roller.

Its then recommended to “back-brush”. Back-brushing is the process of using a paintbrush to evenly spread and work oil into the timber after it’s been applied. This process helps ensure the finish is even, penetrates the surface, and fills in any cracks or crevices. With either application method always apply in the direction of the grain.

Allow the oil to dry as per directions on the can (at least two hours for the Cabots product).

For a smoother finish, lightly sand the surface after it is dry with 240-grit sandpaper to remove any raised grain or dust that may have settled.

Wipe away all dust before applying the second coat. After the second coat has dried, use 400-grit sandpaper to gently remove any remaining dust particles before applying the final third coat.

It’s a good idea to re-coat your timber benchtop with oil every 6-12 months before it becomes excessively scratched and worn. Doing so will help you avoid a more time-consuming restoration process and will maintain the wood’s condition and appearance over time. To extend the life of your benchtop between recoats, wipe spills immediately to avoid staining and avoid placing hot pans directly on the wood.

    

Materials

• Cabots Floor Clean
• Cabots Benchtop Clear
• Cabots Natural Wood Tone Putty
• Non-clog sandpapers (180, 240 and 400-grit)
• Painters tape.

Tools

• Random orbit sander or Orbital finishing sander
• Cork sanding block
• Tack cloth
• Putty knife
• 4mm nap micro-fibre roller and Roller frame
• 75mm fine-haired paint brush
• Paint stirrer.

Images

[MitchellMc]

Love this guide @Nailbag!

It's been a few years since I installed my laundry timber benchtop, and it's looking like it needs a refresh. I'll certainly be following this method.

Many thanks for sharing!

Mitchell

[Nailbag]

Thanks very much @MitchellMc. My wooden laundry benchtop is my next job too!

Nailbag

[Dave-1]

Good Morning @Nailbag 

I was only just considering a half modifing of my kitchen and in particular the benchop from particle board to a timber top

And as @MitchellMc has said about his timber laundry benchop makes me think of mine that probarlly needs a coat

Nice instructions.

Dave

[lemonsrus]

Hi there, thanks for this post. I have actually just redone the kitchen tabletop and I am glad that reading this seems to have lined up to my tasks. I have a question about curing, I used the same Cabot product and just read it takes 14 days to cure. What does this mean, I cannot leave any appliances on the counter or use a chopping board to cut food for 14 days?

[JacobZ]

Hi @lemonsrus,

The curing time of 14 days refers to the time it takes for the polyurethane finish to completely harden and achieve the heat resistance it is capable of. During this curing time, the finish will remain slightly tacky and will not be as hard as it will be after the 14-day curing period. The risk with putting things on the bench during this curing period, especially hot things like pots, pans and coffee cups, is that they can stick to the polyurethane, and when removed, the polyurethane can be pulled off or damaged.

Understandably, in an in-use kitchen, it is not ideal, but you'll have to try to keep traffic to a minimum.

For the first 24 hours, do not put anything on the surface as it will be at its weakest. It will dry fairly quickly, being a water-based product, but it will be soft and most susceptible to damage. 

For the 14-day curing period, I would keep appliances that tend to sit in one spot, such as toasters, kettles and coffee makers, off the bench and only place them on the bench when in use and return them to storage when you are finished with them. Things like chopping boards, which are usually stored after use should be fine, but try to use them quickly.

Take care not to slide things over the surface and keep contact time to a minimum.

Ultimately, in an ideal world, you would keep everything off the benchtop for 14 days, but with some discretion and care, very light use should be ok.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob