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I want to add a few additional shelves into my kitchen cabinets:
3 short shelves: 350x280x16
3 longer shelves: 735x280x16
I measured up 3 of the 1200x300x16 boards https://www.bunnings.com.au/flexi-storage-home-solutions-1200-x-16-x-300mm-white-matte-shelf_p271014... and seemingly good to go.
I picked up a Ryobi 1500 corded circular saw https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-1500w-184mm-corded-circular-saw_p0013549 along with a 60T saw blade https://www.bunnings.com.au/diablo-184mm-60t-ultra-finish-circular-saw-blade_p6370898 to make the cuts, but I've run into two problems.
The first problem is that the Ryobi has a 16mm arbor size, but the only 60T saw blades I can find have an arbor size of 20mm. The blade comes with a 16mm reducer, but the flange on the Ryobi is only 16mm and won't hold the blade securely. The hex nut has a small outer flange attached to it, and I assume that's what is supposed to go on the outside. There's also a larger inner flange that will cover the arbor, but I assume that must stay on the inside. Can I replace the outer flange with something wider to fit a larger arbor size?
This brings me to the second problem. I went ahead and used the 24T blade that comes with the saw on one board to see how it would go. First cut was fine (but messy, due to roughness of the 24T). However, when I tried to cut 300mm down to 285mm I found it really difficult to seat the saw so that it would cut straight and not wobble. I had the short side pressed up against a straight edge (a long level clamped to a saw horse), but the long side of the saw hanging off the side. I couldn't figure out the best way to setup so that the saw could sit flat. Any recommendations for cutting at the very edge of the board?
First time using a circular saw here, and strongly considering just using a hand saw (which I did use to finish the cut, and it was remarkably cleaner than my hack job using the circular saw.
Hello @JackSmith
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's wonderful to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about your Ryobi Saw.
Please allow us to double check with our tool specialist at the store regarding using blades with larger arbour's. As soon as we have more information, we'll get back to you.
One technique you can try to preserve the melamine finish when using a circular saw is to use masking tape on the surface of the cutting line. Place the masking tape on the surface first then use a pencil or marking pen on the surface of the masking tape where you'll be doing the cut. The masking tape acts like a buffer preventing large chunks of the melamine surface from being chipped away by the rough blade.
In order to cut the panel with the majority of the saw body sitting on the panel you must cut coming from the other side. Your current situation is that your cutting direction places the saw with only a small section of it sitting on the panel. If you come from the opposite direction the majority of the saw's body will sit on the panel. You just need to move your level further in to allow the saw to sit inside the panel. This technique means that you'll need to use the front slot guide, but if you have a saw guide you can use both to cut a straight line.
Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Hi @JackSmith
A few tips here:
1. The internal and external arbours of the saw must always remain in the same order.
2. Unless there is a fault which I doubt, the blade with a 16mm arbour will fit the saw flat. It might just be a matter of tightening the blade nut more.
3. The widest part of the saw's foot must when ever possible always be on the material. Otherwise it will rock left/right and is dangerous (or an advanced user) to use for several reasons.
4. All saws cut from the underside up. This means the under side will will have the cleanest finish and the underside the worst due to splintering. So, always mark and make your cuts with the material upside down. Especially for melamine. Painters tape along the cutting on the good side can also help reduce splintering. I don't bother on the underside.
5. When cutting melamine, start with the smooth face in front of you so it doesn't splinter out if the board was the other way.
6. Raising the height of the saw so only a couple of teeth are visible will also produce a finer cut and with less friction of the blade and tool. Rest the saw on the side of the material when making this adjustment with the cord disconnected.
7. Using an electric saw over cordless will always be more challenging to use and less for giving due to its very powerful motor. Start up in particular as it will kick. So, a good grip of the saw and always ensuring the blade is not touching the material is very important.
The photo below shows a typical setup for making a straight which, sounds like you're already doing.
Nailbag
Good Morning @JackSmith
Woooo Seriously cant add to @EricL 's and @Nailbag 's description, but @Nailbag 's photos and steps are perfect. 
Cant add to it
Good luck and practice on offcuts first is what I always do/suggest.
Dave
