Having trouble anchoring baby gate into plasterboard/gyprock wall

[plague]

I have been having problems anchoring the baby gate to the gyprock wall we have. Unfortunately at the height of the gate anchors, there's no studs I can use. So I had to rely on using plasterboard anchors. But they keep tearing off the wall everytime I tried. This is happening in 2 places where I had installed the gate at.

The gate I have is https://www.babybunting.com.au/product/dreambaby-retractable-gate-xtra-tall-white-121383. It's a retractable one so it has that pressure to pull back which may be contributing for the anchor to get pulled out of the wall. Add to that when the kid pushes the gate, it may put additional pressure and that may be causing the gate to come off the wall.

Initially I tried using the anchor that came with the set. It lasted for maybe 3 months before it came off the wall.

Then I bought https://www.bunnings.com.au/ramset-nylon-wallmate-plasterboard-anchor-10-pack_p2260973 anchor. It didn't last for long. Came off within a few days.

I came and asked the bunnings staff at the store for advice. They suggested I use a stronger anchor. They suggested https://www.bunnings.com.au/ramset-8-x-50mm-universal-anchor-4-pack_p2260443. This lasted maybe a few weeks before it came off again. Problem on this one is that it wasn't expanding inside the wall. Couldn't bite into the wall. Because the anchors are close to each other in the bracket, the hole in the wall was split open easily.

By then I had run out of space in that wall area with all the holes. I had to use https://www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-180g-spakfilla-rapid-gap-filler_p1231864 to fill the wall holes.

Came back to the store and spoke to another staff. He said the plastic ones are not good enough. Suggested I use the metal one which is stronger and more durable. With their recommendation, I bought https://www.bunnings.com.au/ramset-m5-x-9mm-plasterboard-hollow-wall-anchor-4-pack_p2260148. The problem with this one is that while the anchor has 2 holes to use the screws in, it's too close to use 2 metal ones. But they said it should be ok as it can handle a heavy weight and should be durable for the purpose.

But alas, it also came off the wall after a couple of weeks. And because of how wide it spreads inside the wall, it damaged the wall pretty badly. You can see the patchwork from before next to the new hole.

hole in wall

Now I'm left with either getting a new gate or find a different solution to anchoring the wall brackets.

Anyone have any advice on this matter? I don't want to have to spend $400 on new gates if I can anchor the brackets somehow.

[JacobZ]

Hi @plague,

I'm sorry to hear that your baby gate journey is still on going.

While not familiar with the brand of hammer drill you have linked to, it is similar to the majority of others I've come across in that there is a rotating mode selection on the back side of the chuck. You will need to ensure that this is set to the hammer function. I have circled this below in red.

   

When set in the hammer mode, a hammering action is applied in conjunction with the rotation of the bit that helps to chip away at the material. You should ensure that the drill is set to this function while attempting to drill into brick.

You may need to replace the masonry bit you were provided in this kit as it's likely that it has been compromised. I suggest the Kango 8mm x 100mm Masonry Drill Bit. 

If you find that this particular drill is not up to the task, I suggest looking at the Ryobi 800W 13mm Corded Hammer Drill. This style of hammer drill is more specific to the task of drilling into masonry and will make light work of this task.

Let me know if you require further assistance.

Jacob

[plague]

Hi @JacobZ,

Thank you for your reply. I did attempt with the Impact Drill mode as you highlighted. I'm wondering if I had the wrong torque settings. Should the torque be higher or lower? I was doing it at 9.

Also, I wonder if it is brick or steel inside. I can't see it without making the hole bigger which I didn't want to do. But I wonder if the masonry drill bit didn't work if it was a steel.

I will check out the Ryobi one next time I'm at bunnings. I didn't want to spend much for a few holes but maybe it's better than breaking the drill I already have and need to replace it.

[JacobZ]

Hi @plague,

The torque or clutch setting shouldn't have too much effect in this situation. What this does is determine under how much torque load, the motor will cut out to prevent failure or injury to the operator. If you found that when you were trying to drill, the motor was cutting out, I would advise moving it to a higher torque setting, however I suspect this wasn't the issue.

If there was brick behind the plaster, regardless of how tough it was, you would see some kind of brick dust or powdery residue on the head of the drill bit. If you didn't see brick dust, then maybe it is steel that you were hitting. To determine whether this is correct or not, you can use a Deta Powerful Magnet to determine if there is indeed steel behind the wall.

You should look at the Kango 10 - Piece Multi-Max Multi-Material Drill Bit Set as an option as it is capable of drilling through both steel and masonry. 

It may also be worth considering hiring the services of a local handyman as they will have more trade-quality tools that will make light work of this job.

Please don't hesitate to get in touch if you have any further questions.

Jacob

[JoeAzza]

Hi @plague , if you are still have problems with fixing the gate to plaster wall, m y suggestion would be to locate the timber studs behind the plaster wall , then cut out the plaster between the stud and insert noggin studs between the verticals studs, then re install your cut out plaster and patch the area, just timber to mark the position of the new studs, then you can mount the gate to the new studs.