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A friend of mine wanted a ceiling for his Alfresco area to finish and hide the rood frame. I saw these new wall panels at Bunnings and it gave me an idea...
Materials
Prempanel 2700 x 600 Oak Acoustic Panels
90mm x 35mm M10 pine
Otter 50mm 14G black button head screws
Custom U-channel flashing
Tools
Tape measure
Drill & 2mm pilot bit
Impact driver
String line
Steps
Step 1
Step 1: Measure and mark out the centre line of 2700mm x 600mm within the roof space. Using a string line helps with this.
Step 2
Step 2: Cut and fix the 90 x 35 pine as battens to the existing roof frame to that the feature panels will fit half-way on each batten. This allows for the next panel to the side or end can be fixed. I used a frame cut but you could use 75mm batten screws through pore-drilled 6mm holes
Step 3
Step 3: I used off-cut of the pine and made offset blocks that I clamped to the battens. These were used to support the panels while they were being fixed in place by the black button head screws.
The black spacing between the timber panels is actually a sound-check material that compresses. so screws can easily be over-driven, hence using flat button heads. When driving the screws, you need to use your fingers to hold open wider the timber slats so the button heads can clear the edges and stop damage.
The panels are very flexible so having a platform ladder and a step ladder with two people are required, though I did manage to do this on my own. Not my first choice!
Step 4
Step 4: There will be cutting required, both end and by length. The straight edge clamped to the cutting line and a fine toothed blade was used on a circular saw. Taping the cutting line with blue painters tape will reduce any splintering. This was performed on a couple of saw horses.
Step 5
Step 5: as this product is internal and I had the edges of the panels exposed to the weather, I had made up at the local plumbing supplies 26mm (ID) x 15mm U shaped colourbond Chanel that I trimmed and fitted to all edges wand fixed with silicone.
Step 6
Step 6: I installed solar LED string lights (not seen in the photos) through every 2nd black Channel.
Hi @MVJ
It's not that they are heavy, they are difficult to mount. Being foam backed makes them weak, so you need to compensate for that, which is a difficult job.
I would probably go with a product that was more structurally solid to install now that there are more lining boards profiles I see available in Bunnings. It really comes down to personal taste. But any of these can be an advanced install when working overhead and trying to line everything up. Probably the toughest job I have ever done was installing VJ boards on a ceiling. Looked great in the end, but I'll never do it again.
Nailbag
Hi @Nailbag
Perhaps Sika 750m Sikabond Foam Construction Adhesive then a temporary timber moulding to hold the loose one and screwed to the other ones while the adhesive cures?
Eric
Thanks @JacobZ
trying to upload a photo again, not sure why it didn’t go through. I would add some joists/batten, but that is the patio
Morning @MVJ
Your correct, these would add significant weight and need extensive additional timbers (in my case) to fix to, which add another layer of complexity to the build. See image below. This project was the early stages of essentially enclosing much of the rear deck to maker it a useable space in winter and add my privacy for a twin-occupied property.
What I think would look great that would be an easy install and light would be these 42mm x 18mm white coated battens. Spaced say 10-15mm apart would work nicely with the white backdrop of the white Stratco roof. They are also relatively cheap at $5.30/Lm
I would install a couple of smart home LED light strips to the Stratco beams facing each other. This would produce a controllable light source from a gentle glow to more usable light.
Nailbag
