Good Times modular custom or standard frame?

[snipwhip]

Hi,  I'm intending a build a deck around 5.4m * 2.0m (+/- 10cm) using Good times custom frame (945 * 945) instead of the 1113*1113 standard frame for Ekodeck. Has anyone used this custom frame for your decking which Good Times will cut to size for you and if so, what was your experience with the quality?

I can't find many reviews on the custom frames but the standard frames seem ok enough. Ultimately thinking of whether to get custom frames or buy the standard frames and cut down to size myself. I intend to use long 5.4m ekodeck boards and not the panels. Thanks in advance.

[snipwhip]

Thanks for that @MitchellMc 

Apologies -  my questions are all over the place as this is my first DIY and I'm coming up with new questions as things pop into mind.

Based on my calculations, the decking boards will be about 5120mm laid as shown below, which including the framing would make the 5.4m deck im intending to build. This will be built on 2x5 1113 x 1113mm good time frames. I will have to cut the right most frames down to fit. 

1) Do i need to factor in a breaker board for a 5.12m length of ekodeck or is it fine to go with the one length as designed below?

2) If so, i guess i will need to add extra joists in the middle and both ends?

3) Does the design look sound? I didnt add support points as good times decking has guidance on that.

Thanks!

[EricL]

Hello @snipwhip 

Since your deck panel is only 5.1m long and is surrounded with a picture frame it technically falls under Ekodecks recommendation of a breaker board if your deck is past 5.4 meters. That said, if you decide to add a breaker board (for visual symmetry or thermal management), then yes, you’ll need double joists on both sides of the breaker board. This allows you to fasten both the board ends and the breaker board itself. You’ll also need double joists along the outer edges (which Good Times frames usually already support). In your case, the two 1113 × 1113mm frames would require an additional joist line down the middle if a breaker board runs lengthwise.

Your design is sound without a breaker board, provided expansion gaps are properly handled. Adding a breaker board is optional for aesthetics or to simplify expansion management but would require a few more joists and fixings.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[snipwhip]

Thank you @EricL. How do you determine the size of the double joist and the blocking in between? In my example below, i will add another 45mm joist and 45mm offcut as a blocking which makes the double joist 135mm. With a 137mm edge board overhanging by 23mm for the side fascia, I'm only left with 21mm to attach the rest of the decking to. Is this correct? Thanks.

[EricL]

Hello @snipwhip 

I suggest having a look at the Ekodeck guide - Deck It Yourself. The guide will explain the installation much better, and you will not get confused with my explanation of how the panels are suppose to be positioned. It will also possibly answer some of your follow up questions in regards to installation. My best recommendation is not to skip any of the chapters to get a full understanding of the Ekodeck system. Their hidden clipping system is outstanding and will give your deck a high-class finish.

Eric

[snipwhip]

Thanks @EricL .

In my project, i anticipate to lose about ~300mm * 15 decking boards due to picture framing.

I was wondering - can these off cuts be used as fascia? I would use a full length for the longest part of the deck but on the sides, i was thinking rather than waste these boards, i could use them on fascia but they will be butt joined which i understand is not recommended for ekodeck.

However, as its on the fascia rather than top, is the expansion and contraction a big issue? 

Thanks

[EricL]

Hello @snipwhip 

The small off cuts of Ekodeck will definitely still expand and contract and it's difficult to tell by how much because of their small size. But I believe that butting them up together will cause issues due to the expansion. I know that you are not keen to just throw away these off cuts, but I don't advise using them as fascia for the side of the deck. 

However, if you don't mind seeing gaps in the fascia then it could definitely be used as you've described, but with gaps between the panels. I propose using them for something else such as pot covers or pot bases. You can assemble a small pot ladder stand or turn them into children's seating. The side projects you can convert them into is limited only by your imagination. 

Eric

[snipwhip]

Thanks. I'd hate to see gaps opening up so I'll just get another full length and build something with the rest. 

[snipwhip]

Hi @EricL @MitchellMc @JacobZ it looks like I'll change to merbau panels instead due to my property's probable bal29 rating. 

I have some questions:

1) Are the merbau panels pre oiled or do I need to apply timber prep and oil them?

2) I think the panels use 90mm boards. For the fascia, can I use 140mm boards or should you stick with 90mm for continuity? I've never seen mix width boards on a deck before.

Thanks

[JacobZ]

Hi @snipwhip,

The Good Times Decking Merbau Panel Modular Decking are not pre-oiled, but being merbau, they are tannin-rich, meaning they have natural oils in them. This means there is a certain level of natural protection, but you will need to oil them once these tannins leach. 

You can either wait for them to leach out naturally, which typically takes around 8-10 weeks, or you can use Cabot's New Timber Prep to remove the tannins, then clean them with Cabot's Deck Clean before applying an oil such as Cabot's Aquadeck. Whatever you choose to do, you must apply oil to the merbau, whether it is now or in 2-3 months' time.

Yes, the panels use 90mm boards, and yes, it would be fine to use 140mm boards for your fascia. Being a fascia board, it is inherently different to the rest of the boards, so it wouldn't stand out as being different. The main thing is that it is merbau, so it looks the same as the rest. I have seen this exact scenario on a deck that I worked on, and unless you went looking for it, you wouldn't even notice it.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

[snipwhip]

Great! Thank  @JacobZ .To attach steel posts for the legs,  the recommended fixing is 12g 30mm screw which seems out of stock everywhere. Can I use the 12g 25mm? Since it's going into 45mm joists? Or should I go longer?