Share
Hello @Samc1234
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about the DEKO footing.
I suggest having a quick look at these guides - How to build a low-level deck by @Adam_W and How to build a deck by @MitchellMc. these guides will give you a general idea about what the frame structure could look like, what wood to use along with what screws to use. After reading the guide I suggest drawing on paper your decking frame plan using the DEKO footing blocks. Since the deck is not so big you should be able to draw this up easily.
I also suggest having a look at this featured project - Low-level composite deck over concrete and soil by @oninpena. It is an excellent example of a single level deck that uses 90x45 H3 treated timber. The DEKO footing can accept 90x45 H3 framing timber easily. The soil footing must be tamped hard so that the DEKO footing does not sink.
I also suggest looking at the Bunnings deck building guide:
- How to plan out your deck
- How to set out a deck
- How to install stumps
- How to install bearers
- How to install joists
- How to lay decking
- How to add a step to your deck.
Here is the link to the DEKO footing brochure - DEKO BW 10370 2PP A4 Deko Foundation Brochure_V1
If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.
Eric
Thank you,
does the below picture look like the correct set up?
It will be built with merbau decking wood.
Being a small heigh, does any prep need to be done to the soil? I will be removing grass
Hi @Samc1234,
I'm sorry, but your image has come through very small. Any chance you could try again with a higher resolution?
From what I can see, your 3500mm side has three joists in the middle. You’ll need to space the joists at a maximum of 450mm centres along the 3500mm length, which works out to nine joists, including the two edge ones. That means placing them at 0, 450, 900, 1350, 1800, 2250, 2700, 3150 and 3500mm. Just make sure the end joists are properly supported on a bearer or ledger, and follow the decking manufacturer’s span recommendations to ensure the boards are well supported.
It's important that the deck supports are placed on firm and compacted ground. A hand tamper can be used to achieve this.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Hi Mitchel,
Thank you for clarifying. Do all joists need to be supported by a decko block?
Is this image better? (I have not included the additional joists needed from your comment in the image yet)
Hi @Samc1234,
You’ve currently got large unsupported sections on either side of the deck where the last joist stops short of the edge. Once you bring the joists into 450mm centres, that overhang will reduce, but you’ll still end up with about 450mm of decking overhanging at each side without direct support. So yes, ideally every joist should be supported, including the last ones. The challenge is that if you place a support directly under those outer joists, the deck supports will be visible from the side. A common workaround is to run double joists at the ends and place the support under the inner joist, which keeps things structurally sound while also keeping the supports hidden from view.
Mitchell
Sorry Mitchell for all of the questions,
my new sketch looks like this? I feel as though there are way too many deck footings. On the DECKO footing brochure in the above chat it states maximum 1.5m between joists. Is there anyway that I can reduce the footings needed.
90×45mm joists only need support about every 1.0 m, so you can drop that central row of footings and get away with two rows instead of three @Samc1234.
Mitchell
