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We have a cluster of traveller palms that have sprouted in the narrow space between the garage and the side fence. After many years they've not only filled that space, but also pushed over the fence. The neighbouring property has been recently purchased and the new owner has served us with a remediation notice, so we're under some time pressure to get this sorted.
A friend attempted to cut them using his (brand new) chainsaw, which resulted in the machine becoming clogged with wet sticky palm chips, and its battery overheating, with rather little progress. So I'm looking for an alternative approach.
I could like to cut them off at ground level, so that we can begin repairing the fence. I imagine herbicide may be necessary to prevent regrowth, but we can deal with that later.
Currently I'm contemplating something like a "hand chainsaw", which comprises just the toothed chain with pull handles on each end, such as the Darlac Pocket Chain Saw (I/N:0780249), or a wire saw, which is essentially a length of wire with embedded abrasive grit, such as the Haron Saw Cable CS100 (I/N:0643415).
Cable saws are more commonly used for cutting hard materials, such as semi-precious stones or plastic pipe, but they will cut timber at a pinch. They're a lot cheaper than hand chainsaws, by a factor of ~5, but of course they wear out much faster.
However both of these products are 600mm, while the largest of the palms is 700mm⌀ so both are far too short.
Does anyone know of a longer version of either of these, preferably around 1500mm?
Is it possible to join two Darlac chains end-to-end?
What about a much longer wire saw, that can be looped around a drive wheel, and either cranked or motor-driven?
Hello @DIY-Dilatante
I've had a good look and could not find longer versions of the hand saws you mentioned. There are also no joining kits available for the Darlac chain saw. However, I suggest looking at the Ozito 1900W 356mm (14") Corded Chainsaw ECS-1935. I also propose changing your cutting technique on the palm tree. Instead of doing a traditional straight cut, I propose doing small cuts out of the trunk of the palm tree. In this manner the chain saw will not have to battle the entire body of the tree but only small sections of it.
By slowly cutting away at the trunk the chainsaw will not have to work so hard, and you'll also prevent it from overheating. You can also use an XU1 710W Reciprocating Saw in conjunction with the chainsaw.
Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations on how to cut the palm tree.
If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.
Eric
Good Evening @DIY-Dilatante
Palm trees are a pain in the neck to cut up, as you have found they blunt saws and gum up the works.
A couple of things, the trees sound large and I mean large. My local council has any tree over 5m needs permission to chop it down from the council (they come out and asses it and yes there is a fee) This includes palms. I would suggest to check first otherwise the fines can be high.
As to cutting through a palm, we are back to the trees being tall and in a narrow space. Unless you are a professional tree lopper I would be hesitant to chop it down. I have cut a few down and they did NOT behave well and do what I wanted lol Next to a garage or fence.... yeah nah. professional and save yourself extra costs longer term.
That blade you mention is what I would use but with two people, one either end and do a straight cut. I would also do multiple cuts tro work my way through the trunk so as to not jam the blade in that fibrous trunk. Having a trunk fall even in sections doing it like this I see problems arising.
How tall are the trees? If they are top of the ladder type then using that hand saw to do small chunks from the top down maybe, you may have more control over the fall that way? (rem never stand on or above the second rung from the top of a ladder, gravity is not your friend at this point... (yes I have and yes I have fallen a few times ))
Last suggestion, is there a chance of a photo of the palms, we may be able to come up with a method/sequence.
Dave
Hello @DIY-Dilatante
Just to follow up on @Dave-1's excellent advice. If the tree proves to be too much of a challenge. I suggest engaging the services of a professional tree lopper just to be on the safe side. They will have the tools, knowledge and experience to bring the tree down safely. I also recommend checking your local council's rules and regulation in regards to cutting down trees on your property.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
100% best tool to use to cut both the trunk and the fronds themselves is a reciprocating saw with a long pruning blade. They don't bind up, very fast and efficient with not maintenance and a lot safer. Check this video I made many years back showing an old Qld'r work colleague using it just for that purpose around his house. We were easily going through trunks 12-16" in diameter.
Nailbag
Thanks everyone for your replies.
These are traveller palms, with a short bulbous softwood core (not really a "trunk") and very long leaves and stems - which can be up to 3 metres long and 10 kg each. The leaf stems/fronds start from about 1.3 m above ground level, so it would be feasible to remove the entire foliage using only a machete or cane knife nearly as quickly as with a power saw. However that would be pointless extra work: the garage is 3.5m high, so the weigh that can possibly fall onto its roof is minimal, and they're already sitting against the garage wall so it can't impact in that direction. In the opposite direction, the fence is already demolished, and the yard beyond is a large open space.
The issue is removing the core, which tapers from about 700mm⌀ at ground level, to about 300mm⌀ where the leaves start, and progressively thins above that into a bundle of vertical leaf stems.
Finance is our primary consideration, which rules out paying an arborist or buying a larger chainsaw. (We already own two reciprocating saws, and can borrow a
I appreciate that a reciprocating saw could easily cope with smaller palms (up to 400mm⌀) but the suggested "long" 300mm pruning blade is nowhere near long enough: it wouldn't even reach the centres of the larger cores, much less cut that deep.
The two-people-one-saw approach is promising; that would keep the chain close to straight, while avoiding wear on the pull cables.
Are any stores in SE QLD holding a Darlec chain - presumably as "return", since it's "not sold in stores".
I would like to inspect one in person so that I can assess whether it's feasible to construct a linkage between two identical chains. (I have some experience with metalworking; it's this gardening stuff that's problematic.)
The product that you are referring to which is the Darlac Pocket Chain Saw is only available online. When customers return them, they are actually returned directly to the supplier and does not pass through the Bunnings store. The only way to see them is to order one online.
If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.
Eric
Good Evening @DIY-Dilatante
I have removed one of those types of palms you are describing (or close to it)..... And it was a baby, maybe 200mm wide. It took me a day with a mattock and crowbar to get it out (had spikes like crazy that had been stabbing me for the previous two years) I just kept working away at it and pretty much chisseled it down to size and then dug it up. Labour is free is what it comes down to.
Maybe the same process will save you some $$$
Dave
Not the answer I was hoping for, but helpful nonetheless, thankyou.
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