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Hi,
Our neighbours and I recently installed a boundary PVC fence and I discovered that our small section of fence has been left in an unsafe condition. The pictures tell 1000 words, I’m looking for a way that I could secure the fence correctly to the PVC fence and the side of our house. Right now there are only two brackets holding the fence up, and they’re installed on the rotting retaining wall!
Any suggestions would be welcome, I’d be happy to rebuild our part of the fence as required.
G'day @trippple
I'll start the ideas off with a steel thought. Embedded steel post with rectangular tube 'arms' welded in place wherever you want. Tek screw whatever covering you want onto the arms - sheet-metal/wood.
The idea is no contact is made with your home or new fence. No wall or fence anchoring required.
Of course this is a silly idea if you want a gate.
I did the same thing with my house wall that has asbestos fibro behind the cladding. Each arm on either side of the post is 1100 mm.
Plenty of strength.
Cheers.
Hi @trippple,
A structure like @Noyade has designed would work, but you would need to engage a metal fabricator or welder to build it for you.
If you couldn't do this, we would need to install a post on the side of the PVC fence for the rail to attach to. You could dig a hole and concrete it on the inside of the retaining wall. You could then have the rails run past this post so palings can be used to cover the gap between the retaining wall and the new fence.
On the house side of the opening, the easiest solution would be to bolt a post to the block wall using DynaBolts. The rails can then be attached to that post.
If you wanted to reuse the existing fence, you could simply add some small extensions to the rails, so they extend closer to the PVC fence. These extensions could then have one or two palings added to close up that gap and give you a nice solid side fence.
Let me know what you think.
Jacob
Howdy @trippple,
You could also simply use two star pickets.
On the wall side is that concrete or just topping?
If concrete buying a masonry hole saw is pricey for a one off job.
Use a drill (preferably cord) with a masonry drill bit.
To determine the length of each picket measure the surface height and add about 200mm
On the Bunnies website peruse the star pickets
For example there's a Jack 180 (fence side) and Jack 240 (wall side)
You need to make sure the pickets are correctly orientated.
Pic1 - Fence side and Pic2 - Wall side.
So you can later secure with hex head timber screws.
With assistance-
Position a picket and butt up against top rail
Make sure everything is vertical.
Hammer in the picket so it stands by itself.
Do the same for the other side.
Push fence away to make room for heavier hammer blows.
Use scrap plywood or cardboard to protect fence on one side and wall on the other.
Continue to hammer in one picket, ideally we would like the top of the pickett to line up with the top of the top rail... however.
You also need to keep a eye on the picket holes hoping one of them will line up with the middle rail.
If it ends up that a hole lines up and the top of the picket is above the top rail leave it at that.
Do the same for the other side.
Secure pickets to fence with hex head timber screws.
Top bracket not needed.
Cheers
