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Hi brainstrust,
Long time observer, first time post. Recently hit a roadblock with our exposed aggegrate patio and am getting very confusing advice from various trades.
Long story short, we moved into this property with a large concrete area however the exposed agg must be quite worn as it was very sharp to walk on and my kids would cut themselves badly if they tripped. We had it honed back but unfortunately it came up very patchy and we were told it was due to the age of the concrete and the high ratio of rocks vs cement (see images). Sadly with that money down the drain we need to find another option to resurface it. We're considering tiling it but after seeing the labour costs we are mulling the idea of DIY. It's a large area (65sqm plus the rear pathway) but it is relatively flat I believe and square-ish, and has already been grinded back i.e. any previous sealant has been removed, which I understand is necessary if adhesive is applied for tiling.
The concrete I believe is over 8-10 years old. There is one big crack in the rear pathway but small fractures in the main alfresco area. Relatively flat in most areas after going over with a spirit level.
Questions:
1) I'm generally handy and have done floorboards in the past (and maybe 15yrs younger), are we insane to consider to take this on as a first time DIY tiling project?
2) Confirming that it is okay to tile right over the exposed aggregate with suitable adhesive mix?
3) Are 10mm thickness tiles strong enough to apply? Noting not all the exposed aggregate is completely flat (see images)
4) Considering 600x600 tiles, what pattern should they be laid and which corner do you start from?
5) I went into Bunnings and was told all their tiles are not suitable for outdoors, is this correct? Referring to the Duratile 600x600s.
6) What do I put on the edges to finish? Metal strips?
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Cheers,
Wei
Hi @Wei123 see below:
Questions:
1) I'm generally handy and have done floorboards in the past (and maybe 15yrs younger), are we insane to consider to take this on as a first time DIY tiling project?
A: DIY vs the cost of professional done is significant to say the least. If you're handy and prepared to take your time your starting off an exceptionally good base. I would say go for it.
2) Confirming that it is okay to tile right over the exposed aggregate with suitable adhesive mix?
A: Unless proven wrong, I would say yes. It's important to use a flexible adhesive and obviously follow the directions of the manufacturer. But personally I would consider the base you have to work from is an excellent one and instead lay pavers on a washed white sand base. This would be significantly cheaper and easier to lay.
3) Are 10mm thickness tiles strong enough to apply? Noting not all the exposed aggregate is completely flat (see images)
A: I wouldn't, as you're lending yourself to cracked tiles and grout. I would be surprised if suitable external 10mm tiles are even available.
4) Considering 600x600 tiles, what pattern should they be laid and which corner do you start from?
A: I would go with 450 x 450 max as being much easier to manage as well as a multiple of other reasons. use the house as your straight line reference and start at one corner wall to work along.
5) I went into Bunnings and was told all their tiles are not suitable for outdoors, is this correct? Referring to the Duratile 600x600s.
A: That is correct
6) What do I put on the edges to finish? Metal strips?
A: Mortar bed or steel edging would be thew best long term.
Nailbag
Thank you @JacobZ and @Nailbag appreicate the advice.
I think I'm leaning towards tiling but haven't ruled out completely the paving. Went to Beaumont tiles who recommended some outdoor tiles. Assuming I go for the tiling option, perhaps my highest uncertainty is the levelling prep stage. I feel fairly comfortable to give the laying of tiling a go but agree that the prep would need to be done well.
With levelling, there seems to be a fair few YouTube videos on the use of the material for indoors where there are defined walls, but not outdoors. Some questions to go with this:
1) When levelling, should I be avoiding lettting it seep through the expansion joints? If so, how do I go about this?
2) Similiar to the first question, how do I ensure I avoid the edges as I can see there is some residual expansion joints connecting the walls of the house.
3) How do I not let the levelling material pour too much onto the grass on the outer edges? Do I build some kind of form work beforehand? If so, what is the best material to use without it sticking to the self leveller?
4) How do I protect the limestone around the bbq area from any splashes from the self leveller or is it easy to clean off any mistakes made?
Thanks again in advance, super helpful.
Wei
Hi @Wei123,
As @Nailbag mentioned, it's best not to apply self-leveller over the whole area as you'll level it, whereas it should be graded away from the house, and the slab is likely already sloped. However, you can use the self-leveller to fill deep depressions, if needed.
They've answered most of your questions, but please let us know if you have anything further.
Mitchell
Hello @Wei123
Just to clarify you are referring to a tile adhesive, yes? If you are, I suggest looking at the Dunlop 20kg Trade Resaflex. It is a rubber modified tile adhesive and is rated for indoor and outdoor use. Using a flexible adhesive is actually better as it can withstand movement from the substrate to a certain degree which will prevent the tiles from cracking. The same can't be said if you were to use nonflexible tile adhesive. Resaflex allows for minimal movement and is suitable for situations where only slight movement is anticipated, such as over stable substrates like concrete, render, or fibre-cement sheets, not timber floors.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
