Hi,
We'd like to have more of a thermal barrier on this north side wall, on the sides of the window, for now there are these batts that looks pretty terrible. There is a veranda/structure that blocks the sun but the heat still comes through a bit. Could some type of wood that could look better too act as a thermal barrier? and if that sounds feasible how thick the wood should be? I thought it could also be painted with heat reflective paint? (we have a brick veneer house with a blow in insulation).
It is for a health reasons/condition why we need to keep indoors so cool .
Your suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
After researching for claddings, we came across this
Kindly,
Tina
Hi @Vitriolum,
From what I can see, you’ve already got some insulation in place, but it’s visually unappealing and you’re trying to both improve the look and increase the thermal barrier on that north-facing wall. You’re correct that adding a covering can help, both aesthetically and to provide some additional resistance to heat transfer, but there are a few important things to keep in mind.
Using timber cladding over the existing batts can improve the appearance and provide a small degree of extra thermal mass, which can slightly slow heat transfer. The thickness of the timber will influence this effect: even 12–18 mm of solid timber can give some benefit, but it won’t block heat nearly as effectively as purpose-made insulation. Thicker timber adds more mass, but the improvement is modest unless paired with an air gap or reflective layer. Painting the timber with a heat-reflective paint can also help, particularly if it’s a light colour with infrared-reflective properties, but again, the effect will be limited compared to proper insulation.
Since it’s for health reasons and you really need to keep the indoor area cool, the most effective approach would likely be a combination of solutions: ensuring the existing insulation is well installed, adding an aesthetically pleasing covering (like timber battens or cladding) with a small air gap behind it, and using a reflective coating on the exposed surface. If possible, taking clearer photos or a simple sketch of the wall, window, and surrounding structure will help provide a more specific recommendation.
Can I ask what kind of cooling you have within your home? I would have thought a standard cooling system with sufficient capacity would address any heat issues, given the extent you've gone to in insulating the home.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Hi Mitchell,
thank you for your reply to both of my posts, the other one was on our garage. Yes the temperature differences can be very minimal to someone with a normal health, but for now we've needed to take more measures to keep it cooler than most houses would have their indoor temperature. The garage is 4-5C warmer to the rest of the rooms, while I understand your point that it may always be warmer even after insulation, We have split system AC's. but are willing to take those batts off altogether and replace it with perhaps cladding even if it cannot insulate as much as additional batt insulation.
I only noticed your reply after editing my post to say that we also came cross this Weathertex 3660 x 200mm Classic Smooth Weatherboard, would this (or something similar) also be heat resistant with the needed air gap? its already light in colour.
Hello @Vitriolum
The Weathertex 3660 x 200mm Classic Smooth Weatherboard provides minimal thermal resistance. Its main job is to protect the wall from rain, wind, and UV, allowing for a breathable, durable facade. Generally speaking, the insulation comes from the air gap. I propose keeping the batts you currently have to retain the insulation properties you currently have. Adding the weatherboard will add a bit of insulation but not a great deal.
I also suggest having a look at this discussion - How to insulate a brick shed? by @Nuggets.
Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1, @Nailbag and @AlanM52 for their recommendations.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Good Morning @Vitriolum
I have the same type of security shutters, when I was looking at my house I realised they are for heat not actuall security ![]()
They do a fair job of stopping heat, tho a thick inside curtain added to the layering would help in a large way to minimize that heat transfer.
With the sun on the walls, Instead of the paneling you have suggested I would go for a slatted drop of maybe 600mm from the eave.
So think of a rectangular frame that has horizontal slast in it, these are screwed just behind he gutter to the underside of your eave. It will create shade/stop the sun from impacting your brickwork. You dont need all the bricks coverd, just part during the hotter period of the day.
I would also consider a screen for being in front of the metal shutters. Anything to stop the sun before it gets close will work in your favour.
Dave
Hi @Vitriolum,
When needing to insulate from heat think of gaps and airflow.
You could start with this.
Long gaps.
High thermal insulation.
Add a 2nd sheet (boost insulation) spaced off with square Velcro pads - Airflow.
You will need a light timber frame or maybe use wire mesh panels.
OR
Install the poly sheet(s) on the back of decorative panels.
I also have a recycled water version of the above.
Cheers
Workshop is a friendly place to learn, get ideas and find inspiration for your home improvement projects
We would love to help with your project.
Join the Bunnings Workshop community today to ask questions and get advice.