How to re-seal windows in old wooden frame?

[anaedeia]

Hello everyone!

I have been turning to these forums often to try and navigate various DIY projects since buying my first home, a little old fixer upper.

The windows are set into old wooden frames and they rattle when cars pull into the driveway.

I initially bought window and glass sealant, following guidance from this post: https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/t5/Living-and-Bedroom/How-to-seal-window-glass/td-p/259680

However, I've since noticed that most other posts refer to using only Selleys Linseed Oil Special Putty.

I'm struggling to find consistent information about how to tackle this, including how to scrape out the old putty, and if I even need to. This has been my biggest DIY struggle - the amount of different approaches for each task and not knowing which one is right for me (as someone who has never done any of this stuff before).

I also know the frames need sanding but across the whole place it seems like a big messy job which will require me to borrow a hose vacuum. 

Any advice is welcome 😊

Ash

  

[anaedeia]

Hey Dave,

I think it is actually only certain cars/movements. Unfortunately it is often set off by a neighbour when I'm trying to get to sleep and the rattling is very loud so I end up getting cheesed off with the window.

I'm not sure what you mean by the weather strip, as the window that rattles is set into the timber frame. It doesn't open in any way, and I think weather strips are placed between two frames? Please let me know if I'm wrong! That is why I thought the best action would be to seal it all around given there is some evidence of old putty (on the inside) which has clearly deteriorated over time, but it's all sounding more complicated than that 😬

Let me know what you think. Thanks for the clue!

[Dave-1]

Good morning @anaedeia 

Whoops, I wa sthinking it was an old school window that pops outwards and up. The vibration still stands and especially now that you have mentioned that its only certain cars.

The thickness of the glass pane would effect the harmonics - Like a thin sheet of plastic can wobble more then a thick sheet. 

Having the edges redone - This could firm up the edge with new timber strips (I dont hold high hopes)

Resealing the edges with new putty - I would try this as a first step but not confident 100% (maybe 60-70%)

Using window frosting (contact for privacy on windows) As a test Pillar 0.9 x 2m Embossed Frost Adhesive Window Film if you get desperate.

Replace glass in the window. - I would recomend a glazier for that one. They also may be able to suggest a work around. I am lucky with my lounge window as its a rarity with certain cars.

Just had a side thought, maybe you could try the contact trick with the bottom 1/3rd of the window and see before doing the whole window if you go that path.

Dave

[MitchellMc]

Hi @anaedeia,

There's a bit of information in this discussion to digest. Firstly, I wouldn't go removing any of the window timber. If it gets to that point, it would be best to enlist the services of a professional glazier. If the glass is loose in the frame, then we can pack it out instead of removing timber. 

Go to the window and press the glass all around the perimeter. Is it loose anywhere? Does it wobble? As @AlanM52 was suggesting, inserting something between the pane and the frame can take up this wobble room and hold the pane in position. You could use a shaved-down matchstick or a paddlepop stick. You want to pack the area to prevent the movement of the pane. Once the pane can no longer move, you can run a bead of Selleys 310g Clear Glass Silicone Sealant around the perimeter of the glass between it and the timber. This will lock the packers in position and help prevent movement.

Regarding your question on silicone versus linseed putty, I see no evidence of putty on your window. Putty was used to seal the gap between the glass and timber in older homes, but it's a messy process, which I would avoid unless you are trying to match a period-correct finish.

Start by assessing the wobble and seeing if you can resolve it with packers.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

[R4addZ]

Hi @anaedeia 

I personally wouldn't try packing the gaps as any stress that puts on the glass could cause it to crack or shatter. and silly as this sounds, I as a telephone tech have had to do glazing (years back we had to look after telephone boxes in our areas and if any glass got broken, we had to replace it). My suggestion would be to mask round the glass and mask round the wood to only leave the gap between the two exposed and then run a bead of silicone round it and smooth it in, you can get a tool for this but a wet finger works quite well. then remove the masking tape before it sets. The silicone should stick to both the wood and the glass and stop the rattle. However if it still rattles you simply repeat on the inside and the glass will then be sandwiched between the two beads of silicone and ao should be unable to rattle.