A relative simple task that can be achieved with only a few tools and some products from Bunnings.
System inlet replacement kit to suit your system brand. I suggest taking lots of photos of the system and and removing the lid and take some of the internals before heading to the plumbing isle of your local Bunnings to help make the friendly staff job easier to assist your requirements.
Some plumbing tape. Extremely cheap.
Adjustable wrench or multi grips found in the tool shop doesn't have to be expensive.
Before getting started double check the new inlet is the same as the one in your toilet or if advised it is an alternative replacement then your good to go...
Once you are home lay everything out in the bathroom or toilet area.
Have a bucket and a towel ready to catch water
The toilet lid should be removed if not remove it.
Turn off the water supply at the cock valve
Flush the toilet until no more water flows, it will not completely empty don't worry that's what the bucket and towel are for.
With the adjustment wrench or multi grip undo the first nut on the inlet pipe below the system, then undo the next one.
At this stage you can remove the inlet valve.
Take out the new one and place them side by side
Push the lock collar up so that you can adjust the height, don't worry it is a bit tight give it a wiggle and a pull, then compare and lock back off with the collar.
Remove the lock nut and rubber seal from bottom of valve thread
Apply plumbing tape to the plastic thread at the bottom, apply it in reverse rolling not standard forward wrapping.
Go to system and make sure you remove the old rubber seal and the old lock nut then insert the new rubber seal and put the new lock nut on the inlet pipe.
Now insert the inlet valve makong sure it slips into the pipe,( if like me the filter in the inlet valve stops it going down it can be removed )and proceed to screw on the lock nut underneath, nip it up with the adjustable wrench or multi grips but don't over do it.
Next screw the pipe nut up and give it a firm tighten but not over doing it you don't want to split it.
Give the pipe a good wipe dry and then turn the water back on and feel for any leak, if so turn off give a little more tighten and try again. It's also good if there are no leaks to still come back and check.
If all is good put the lid back on, clean up, give yourself a pat on the back and proceed to the beer / wine fridge.
I hope that helps someone.
Thank you very much for sharing this very handy guide on changing an inlet valve in your cistern. It's always good practice, changing like for like when it comes to toilet repairs. In this manner, there will be fewer surprises and you can be confident that the part you purchased is compatible with the toilet. I'm sure our members who are in the same situation will find your guide very useful.
We look forward to seeing your next D.I.Y. project.
It is always most helpful for us Team Members if you can bring the existing part in to match it up if you are unsure. As you can appreciate there are many parts across many sections and it is the best way we can assist you in your projects.
I have been using the Fix-a-Loo system for a number of years now and surprisingly they do break down on a regular basis. I've found the common problem to be the cistern won't stopped filling.
I do remember going to Bunnings and asking the staff member there if this can be corrected with a new rubber valve. He told me you can replace it, but money and effort wise - "you're better off buying an entire new kit."
Is this the case?
If your inlet valve is in good condition, then I'd recommend replacing the inlet seal, @Noyade. However, if the plastic is aging or has become brittle, then it might be worth spending the extra to replace the whole lot. Personally, I see no reason to change the whole lot unless the unit is damaged, as it's easier and cheaper to replace the seal.
If you have an old valve, I'd recommend you swap it out for either the FIX-A-LOO Hush FLush or Fluidmaster inlet valve. The parts and replacement valves are more readily available and typically are a more straightforward design with better access to the valve.
I've bookmarked this thread for future toilet issues. 👍