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The door scrapes when you open it as door has swollen. Can't remove door as the door frame is too small. Any ideas?
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @Pin09. It's wonderful to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about a swollen door.
Where exactly is the door making contact? In some situations, if the contact is not too severe, you can stick some 120-grit sandpaper between the door and the surface it's scraping against and then work the door back and forth over it, removing material from the door. This can sometimes free it up enough to function correctly.
Let me tag @Nailbag and @Dave-1 for their thoughts.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Good morning @Pin09
I also have a few questions 
- Where on the door or frame does it scrape?
- The door went in so it should be able to come out.
(Sometimes it dosnt seem that it can but definently the door has to be able to be removed to fix runners ect on the base. (It may be an idea to stop into a Bunnings store and look at how sliding doors work so you get to see "inside" the wall cavity.)
- If you measure the width of the door at the top and then measure the base width, what are they?
I do like @MitchellMc's suggestion for a sticking door if it isnt too bad.
Dave
Hi @Pin09
There are a few causes for the scraping:
1. Does the door wobble side to side at the bottom? If so, there is no guide or guides on the bottom of the door frame which will need to be fitted. There are two types. 1. The door will either have a slotted groove running along the bottom that runs in a plastic guide screwed to the door frame. 2. This is the easier to install even if there is a groove, which are guides that screw to each bottom side of the door frame. The door runs along theses guides. They just need setting about 2mm off the door. Reefer to photo below.
2. The door opening is bowing inwards on one or both sides. In my experience this is extremely difficult to repair. It doesn't sound like sanding the door will help because you will add this thickness back on when repainting it. Best bet is to remove the door and remove material from the inside edge of the door opening timbers by around 5mm either side. This will allow plenty of clearance for the extra couple of mm added back on to the repainted door.
This sounds like it could be your scenario and would require you to have another person try and pry open the door frame opening while the door is being removed.
The top trim of the door frame needs to be removed to access the track and door runners. These need to be disengaged fffromn the door in order to remove it. It's awkward at best of times and more so if the door frame is bowing in. This video from 8min shows how they are installed, so it's just a backwards step. He also shows the guides.
3. Combination of the above.
As for the door itself, it looks like it would be best replaced once the issue is resolved which will be quicker and easier than sanding back and repainting as well as a better result.
Nailbag
