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Like all powertools, they are only as good as the accessory fitted to them. And in the case of a planer its the blades. In an ideal world you would remove any nails, nail heads, staples etc before planing. But these aren't always visible, especially when restoring old wood. It only takes a fine pass over one of these objects to take a nick out of at least one of the two blades. This results in fine raised grooves in the planed surface.
What's not common knowledge to many owners of newer model planers, is that the blades though cannot be resharpened are double sided. And if your planer has the hex key onboard you can reverse the blade/s in a matter of minutes.
Materials
Tools
Trojan Hex Key Set if not supplied with tool
Ultra high-speed replacement 82mm planer blades
Ultra TCT replacement 82mm planer blades
Steps
Step 1
Whether you know it or not, if the shoes (base plates) of your planer has scratches like these, then it's a sign you have been planing over embedded metal objects. And as I mentioned earlier, this results in fine raised grooves in the surface of your timber.
Step 2
Much older model planers (still plenty in operation) use large high-speed steel plate blades, which could be resharpened safely with the right technique. However, when replacing them it requires a tedious process of also having to re-align them centrally and square on the roller to the shoe/base of the planer. As each brand/model has varying processes, you will need to refer to the owners manual.
Bunnings still sell replacement HSS blades and they also sell the conversion kits to allow them to fit the now standard 82mm slither style blades.
Step 3
Other than some specialty models, standard planers use two 82mm long thin slither blades that are double sided. They are available in both High-Speed Steel (HSS) and for just a few dollars more solid tungsten carbide.
HSS don't retain their sharp edge as long as TC blades, but do have more resilience to damage. And being cheaper, they might be the smarter option to use when you're unsure of the condition of the wood and what might lie under the surface.
Step 4
Swapping over the edge of the blade or swapping out for new ones is very easy as no re-alignment is required.
The first and most important step before doing any maintenance on a powertool is to remove its power source. So, removing the battery for a cordless model or unplugging the lead from the power outlet for corded ones..
Next is to use the supplied hex key often found onboard the tool to "loosen" the screws holding the blade securing plate.
Then use pointed-nose pliers to carefully slide the blade out.
Step 5
With the blade removed, use a small stiff brush to clean out the build up of compressed sawdust.
Flip the blade over in the case of re-using the original blade and slide it in or one of the new pair.
It's important to note the front side of the blade has a groove which must be aligned with the raised one in the securing plate as you slide the blade in. If the blade doesn't look square to the fixing plate, then its not sitting within the groove its full length.
When handling TCT blades, be careful not to drop it, especially on to a hard surface floor as this could break it.
Step 6
Before tighten the plate screws you need to align the blade central to the drum. This usually means they will stick out 1-1.5mm either side.
Check for clearance by using your thumb to push the belt along to rotate the drum to ensure the edge of the blades is clear of obstruction. Don't use your fingers on the drum in case they slip on to the blade edge.
Once happy with the alignment, tighten the outside screws lightly, then the inner ones. Then repeat to fully tighten.
Remember to put the onboard hex key back in place ready for next time.
Step 7
Lastly a couple of quick tips to help the blades last longer.
Always rest the tool down on either its retractable foot so the blades can't touch the ground. If your planer doesn't have this feature, then resting it up on something serves the same purpose as does resting the planer on its side. Just make sure the vents are facing up.
And of course wait until til the planer has fully stopped before resting it down.
Evening @Nailbag
Thats a nice explanation of how to and what the plades are on a planner 
And yes I will have to look up some of those abbreviations I have a nick in my blades that hasnt been noticable as yet when ive been planning tho I am just waiting for it to show up. Probarlly at the worst time.
Dave
