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How to fill the holes and gouge in my door?

r23on
Valued Contributor

Re: how to fill the holes and gouge

Hi @newfast 

Good to see you have progressed where you can see everything and I have been reading the post. All the little tweaks that you have found are the things many have learned from others or they have found any easy to do thing from trial and error. As a mechanical engineer when we had to do things like this but on a larger scale.

To make a new cutting template we never used the old section as the template was too damaged and to top it of it is always under size, our process for making new cutting template is

1. Lay the old section on a pice of cardboard draw around it. Draw a second set of lines along side and cut it out.

2. lay the cardboard cutout into the work pice and see where the lines fall in side and the out side of the work space. where the lined do not match the cut out section adjust the the lines to suite. once you have the correct shape make a new template making sure it fits as close as possible.

3. lay the new template on the new replacement material draw the lines and cut out. (cardboard cost less than timber if you make a mistake)

yes it will take a bit of time but the you will be much happier with your progress. 

Note -  cutting the masonite with a box cutter / stanley Knife it will take a long time to do and you will be putting in new blades very quickly, as you have found masonite is hard work even with the multy tool. I suggested you use a coping saw to cut the curves bunnings supplies a Stanley fatMax coping saw and the cost is $18 (masonite has too many cross section for the use of knifes)

I have looked up bunnings they have an unpainted masonite 900 x 600 that should be close enough to do the job. What we have not seen from you yet is the measurements for the spence in the door so can you measure the length and width of the gap for us.

As another point of interest liquid nail is an industrial based product ie its use is more for the building industry where nailing in some cases is not an option.

Hence the PVA types of glue are used for the sort of thing you are doing and there are a number of PVA types of glue such as food grade (food safe), water proof, outdoor / indoor and hide glue all with varying drying times to allow for adjustment. The next time you have the chance to go to bunnings check out all the glue types and you will find the shelves are basically setup in the various grades of glues. The list of glues are long and there uses are many. If you have a bit of time do some research / reading on glue types and having worked with all form of material the glues are interesting even aerospace glues.

 

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newfast
Experienced Contributor

Re: how to fill the holes and gouge

I am so thankful for all the contributors and providing various options....it may sound like I am reading and thanking more than actually doing the work :wink: but it is true as all this info is available FOC and I am still struggling.

 

@TedBear - Bunnings Carlingford is the only option. I think there are some options in North Parra but outside 5km zone.

 

@r23on I am uploading pics that shows measurements however I think I may need to measure again after cleaning the edges as the sides are not even.

Pics:-

1.Last 3 are top to bottom (with close up of start n end)

2. First 4 are side to side (with close up of the start n end)

3. In between are the pics showing measurements inside the designed corners and uneven vertical area.

PXL_20210917_220857742.jpg

PXL_20210917_221007489.jpg

PXL_20210917_220853341.jpg

PXL_20210917_220853341.jpg

PXL_20210917_221105372.jpg

  

PXL_20210917_221040784.jpg

PXL_20210917_221105372.jpg

  

 

 

PXL_20210917_220548261.jpg

PXL_20210917_220707907.MP.jpg

PXL_20210917_220633538.jpg

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MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Re: how to fill the holes and gouge

Hi @newfast,

 

I hope we're not smothering you with too much information, but here's the method I would use. Remove the cardboard honeycomb and glue the blocks of timber onto the central area. Cut some excess strips of the new masonite and glue them around the sides. You can hold them in place with G-clamps until they dry. You then have a flush surface to mount your new cutout on. Find something like a bowl that has the same radius as the corners. Mark out your 51cm square on your new masonite sheet. Use the bowl to create the arcs in the corners. Cut it out and glue it in place on your door. Use screws into the timber blocks to fix it in position. You can then use timber filler to fill any gaps around the outside.

 

I hope these illustrations I've put together help describe this method.

 

Mitchell

 

 

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r23on
Valued Contributor

Re: how to fill the holes and gouge

The reason for the measurements is that they will dictate the size of material need to do the job plus the three packers. So if i am seeing correctly the overall length is 551mm and the overall width is 551 That is the longest length and the widest width.

Between curves is not important are those measurements correct?

If so the 900mm x 600mm sheet will do the job

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newfast
Experienced Contributor

Re: how to fill the holes and gouge

Screenshot_20210918-110035.png

Screenshot_20210918-110043.png

  so this is how my basket look now

@MitchellMc - based on ir 1st pic, I am removing the existing honey comb and putting them vertically, am I correct? Because @TedBear and @r23on  i think was putting 3 panels horizontely top middle and bottom.

Also please put the link for the packers.

 

@r23on - I will recheck and confirm the measurements.

 

@MitchellMc please also advise the nails I need to use so I can order them too

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MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Re: how to fill the holes and gouge

@newfast,

 

You'll need to remove the honeycomb where the packers are to be placed. I can't see much of a difference whether you put the packers vertically or horizontally. I'd go with the majorities recommendation.

 

Carlingford has the Porta 30 x 30 1.2m Pine DAR Timber.

 

I'd suggest using Zenith 6G x 25mm Brass Plated Hinge-Long Threads Countersunk Head Timber Screws. If nails are your only option, Paslode 20 x 1.6mm 100g Bright Steel Flat Head Nails will work.

 

Mitchell

 

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r23on
Valued Contributor

Re: how to fill the holes and gouge

The clamp look fine, just remember it has to fit in the underside of the skin, did you have some PVA glue on the seat of the car? doesn’t matter much all purpose, internally or external glue so long as it a quality wood glue.

The putty knife a straight edge Poly 38mm Putty Knife $4.

You are getting a lot of good advice and you will need to choose which method to run with and follow through other wise you are going to be come confused with what needs to be done. or take some of each of the methods and develop your own method. 

 

 

 

 

 
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newfast
Experienced Contributor

Re: how to fill the holes and gouge

@r23on thank you

 

I'll ho step by step, 1st ckean the edges as much as possible and once I have ordered atick in hand then decide if putting horizontely masonite panels top, mid, and bottim or vertically those big ones by removing honey comb.

 

I also yet to drill hole to get to the inside crack @TedBear mentioned. But its not that big so also thinking to skip it and concentrate on the visible side

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TedBear
Valued Contributor

Re: how to fill the holes and gouge

Hi @newfast 

I noticed that you have Corflute on your list... that isn't a suitable product for a door panel. It is lightweight plastic, that allows light through.  You need to get Masonite 915 x 610 sheet.

I noticed that the Carlingford store only has 1220 x 915. Perhaps they will cut it down so it will fit in your car. (You'll also have enough spare to have a second shot just in case the cutting out goes wrong. 🙂)

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r23on
Valued Contributor

Re: how to fill the holes and gouge

I think that would be the best idea focus on the main problem.

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