How to finish edges of a VJ panelled wall?

[Sugar]

Hi DIY Lover,

There are plenty of posts regarding the VJ panelling, but I would like to start a fresh as per my problem :). 

My plan is to have this wall dedicated for hanging pictures, frames etc. 

This is something I am aiming for. 

I have plan for different walls, but to start with this one and my questions are indicated with the mark. 

In below image, green shadow is the wall, I would like to do VJ paneling.

How do we finish around the edges indicated by the red line ?

How do we finish the VJ panelling before the skirting board shown in the image below ?

What could be the easiest way to work around the areas such as this power plug ?

Thank you. 

[Sugar]

@MitchellMc @JacobZ 

How do you (we) go for VJ panneling around the AC and the window frame in this picture,?

I am picking up this project after so many years. 

This is my first time installing VJ panneling and I think it is going to be tricky around AC unit.

Should I use anythink like this around the window boarders to give nice finishing ?

https://www.bunnings.com.au/products/building-hardware/timber/mouldings/pine-mouldings

I am going to use this from bunnings.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/easycraft-2400-x-1200-x-9mm-easyvj100-wall-lining-primed-general-purpose...

Thank you for the advice.

[JacobZ]

Hi @Sugar,

Is the plan to install the EasyVJ directly over the existing plasterboard? Or would you be removing it before installing the EasyVJ?

I am assuming you would be installing it over the existing wall, which would have some implications when installing against your window and air con unit.

As per the Easycraft General Products & Installations Guide, it is important to consider the expansion gaps required around junctions and obstructions. These three dot points are key.

• A 10mm gap must be left at the floor if the wall lining is being installed only partway up the wall.
• A 5mm gap must be left at the top of the sheet if the wall lining is being installed from floor to ceiling.
• For each metre width of wall or ceiling, allow approx. 1.0mm for an expansion gap at the outer perimeters of your wall or ceiling. (e.g. 6m wall x 1.0mm = 6mm therefore leave a 3mm gap at each outer edge of wall or ceiling

If possible, the best option for the AC unit is to have an AC technician temporarily remove the wall unit so you can install the EasyVJ underneath it. This would give you the cleanest finish possible. 

If this is not possible, you could cut it to fit around the unit and then attach a DAR stop or quad moulding as shown in the Easycraft finishing options and suggestions, ensuring you leave enough of an expansion gap for the width of the area.

For the windows, the thickness of the architrave would need to be considered. If you can comfortably fit a 9mm thick sheet of EasyVJ and a DAR stop or quad moulding against it without it protruding past the architrave, then this could be an option. Otherwise, you might need to temporarily remove the architraves, install some 9 x 9mm DAR Square Timber against the window opening, install the EasyVJ up to the 9x9mm timber, leaving an expansion gap based on the width of the wall, then install the architrave back over the stop and EasyVJ.

There is some complexity to the install, so please let me know if you follow and if you have any further questions I can help with. 

Also, you should definitely have a look at all of the Installation Guides on Easycraft's website as they are quite extensive.

Jacob

[Sugar]

Dear@JacobZ

I might need to be clear on something here, plus few information to give you. 

This EasyVJ 100 I bought today is flushing perfectly with my window architraves, plus with the bottom thickness of the cornices. 

This is the cornices I have in my house.

Updating Media

The VJ flush ( same thinkness) with the cornices. Yes, I am putting this VJ against existing board. 

Questions : 

1.) When it is flushing with window frame, do I still need to use moulding or DAT ?

2.) When it is lushing perfectly with cornices, do I still need to use at the top ?

3.) I have taken out skirting nicely and I am putting the VJ with 10mm gap at the bottom and placing the previous skirting back. However, do I have to allow 5mm gap at the top (althought the flushing with cornices is perfectly okay) ?

4.)  Since I am going to corner to corner, I believe I can put following in my either sides of corners ? Do you have any product in mind with I can use from bunnings?

5.) Do DAR stop and moulding work differently? I still don't understand how do I use them around the Window frame, corners or even at the top?

My apologies of naive questions but I will learn if you explain my each questions ( sorry if there are any repeatation).

#Sugarman

PS: I think I am going to the VJ to the AC unit size. I think the joints can be hidden by painting and with wood filler (if multiple).

This is my progres so far, holes created for switches and skirting removed  

[JacobZ]

Hi @Sugar,

You should be fine using a flexible gap filler such as No More Gaps instead of using mouldings or stops; you will just have to ensure you have created enough of a gap in the right places. 

1. No, you should be fine to use gap filler. You will however, need to leave a gap that is 1mm for each metre of width. 
2. No, you can use gap filler.
3. Yes, you need the 5mm expansion gap at the top.
4. Yes, they are called scotia.
5. No, they function exactly the same. They sit over the panels to cover the expansion gap.

You might like to have a look at How to finish VJ panelling for some discussion on much the same topic.

It looks good so far. Keep up the good work, just make sure you allow for those expansion gaps.

Jacob

[Sugar]

@JacobZ Thanks for all the information. Let’s see where I go after integrating all these information. I will keep you posted. Thanks

[Sugar]

@JacobZ @MitchellMc  This is my progress so far, not sure good or bad . I am happy with my progress being my first time as well. However, there are gaps to fill. I have gaps around Window Frame, top of the panel, around the AC unit and between panels as well. 

The gaps are ranging from 5mm to 10mm as well. Not sure how to tackel this situation. 

Not sure if it is good idea to fill such a big gap with No Gap filler or if there are any other moulding or framing alternatives. 

Here the panel is perfectly lining (flushing) with the thinkness of the bottom of the cornices and window architraves. 

Help !!!

Thank you in advance

Gap underneath window frameApprox. 10mil gap between bottom of cornices and top of panelGaps around window frameGap around AC unit (Right side)Gap on left side of AC unit.gap bottom of window frame

[EricL]

Hello @Sugar 

Thank you for sharing pictures of your progress, the EasyVJ panels are looking good!

Eric

[Sugar]

@EricL   looking for advice to fill the gap. Thanks

[Jason]

Sorry about that @Sugar. Let me tag experienced member @Nailbag to see how he might address those gaps.

Jason

[EricL]

Hello @Sugar 

My apologies for not seeing the rest of your query. I suggest covering the window gap with scotia as Jacob had recommended in his last response. I propose looking at 66 x 18mm 5.4m White Moulding Pine FJ Primed Bullnose to cover the window gap and the aircon gap. As for the gap between sheets, I suggest using Timbermate 500g Earl's MulTflex White Exterior Flexible Filler - 500g. It is a unique exterior filler as it is flexible and therefore won't crack with movement. The top portion will need to be filled in with a silicone filler such as Selleys 475g No More Gaps Interior Multipurpose Gap Filler. The bottom portion of the panel can be covered with a skirting board of your choice. 

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric