Paint Amount

[SPP]

I got the following dimensions for the area I need to paint: 

1) Ceiling Area: 50 sqm 
2) Wall Area: 68 sqm

The ceiling is plasterboard, the walls are VJ. 

I have attached photos of what paint I am using for walls and ceiling. How do I calculate how much paint I need and how much this will cost? 

Ceiling Plan: 
1) One Coat of Primer
2) One or Two coats of Ceiling Whit

Walls: 
1) Two coats of wall paint (VJ is already primed!) 




Also, been preparing the VJ by sandpapering places where I had to use Gap Filler. See below. Some of the bare wood is exposed. Do I need to go over this with Primer? 

[JacobZ]

Hi @SPP,

According to Taubmans website, Taubmans Ceiling White Interior Paint has a coverage rate of up to 16m2/litre and Taubmans Endure Interior Paint has a coverage rate of up to 12m2/litre.

As your ceiling area is 50 square meters and you'll need two coats, we should treat it as 100 square metres, meaning you would need 6.25L if you absolutely maximise its coverage. Your best option would be to grab 2 x 4L Taubmans Ceiling Brilliant White, at a cost of $125.80.

Again, your walls would need two coats, so you'd need 136 square metres. With the coverage rate of 12m2/litre, you would need 11.33L if you maximised coverage. Your best option would be to grab a Taubmans 15L White Low Sheen Endure Interior Walls Paint at a cost of $249.00.

For primer, you would follow the same process of checking the manufacturer's website for the coverage rate, then compare that coverage rate with how much area you need to cover to work out how much you'll need.

With the areas that were sanded and filled, it would definitely be worthwhile applying a coat of primer.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

[SPP]

Thanks @JacobZ 

Well, I got a new problem: 

I used Earl Multifill between VJ walls and architraves/skirting boards. I used too much and the material has dried rock hard. 

I have tried sanding back but it is starting to expose the bare timber. This can be covered with Taubmans 3 in 1 right?

Is there any removal product? Like Isopropyl Alcohol? 

[JacobZ]

Hi @SPP,

The only way to remove it is by scraping or sanding it; there are no chemical agents that will do this for you. It's not a problem if you are exposing the MDF core; you will just have to prime over it.

In saying this, I should point out that you should not be using Earl's multifill for these seams. Earl's multifill is an inflexible joiner, which is designed for filling things like screw holes, where no movement will occur. Corners in a house, especially internal wall-to-wall and wall-to-ceiling junctions, naturally experience small amounts of movement from temperature changes, building settlement, timber expansion, and everyday vibration. When a rigid filler is used in these areas, that movement has nowhere to go, so the filler cracks or breaks away.

These seams will experience movement, so you need to use a flexible sealant like No More Gaps.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

[SPP]

OK Thanks. 

So just keep sanding and then re-apply with Selly No More Gaps. 

[JacobZ]

Hi @SPP,

That's correct.

Also, don't forget to prime the exposed MDF on the VJ board.

Jacob

[SPP]

With Taubmans 3 in 1? 

When sanding, how do I measure the distance between the section of MDF that has the primer and the one that has the bare board? 

[JacobZ]

Hi @SPP,

Yes, you can use Taubmans 3 in 1 or a similar primer.

I'm not sure I understand. Are you asking how to know when to stop sanding so you don't go through the primer?

If so, I wouldn't really worry about it too much. Primer is really thin, so if you need to remove the filler, you're going to end up taking some primer with it no matter how careful you are. 

Just make sure to replace it afterwards and you'll be fine.

Jacob

[SPP]

Thanks @JacobZ 

Once I remove the filler, should I spot prime again before I apply Selly's No More Gap? Or can I apply Selly's No More Gap straight away? 

[JacobZ]

Hi Sree (@SPP),

I'd suggest you prime it first, allow the primer to dry and then apply the No More Gaps. This will ensure you prime as much of the exposed MDF as possible.

Jacob