Time to give the door clamp a try out.
Fitting lock plate
Fitting the door
A bit of a gap.
What were they thinking?
Finished... well almost.
Marty wasn't satisfied with just a nose in earlier.
Will save my thoughts for another day.
So some thoughts...
Steel flooring frame - relatively expensive compared to 90 x 45 timber and you would need strong hands if you use tinsnips as they recommend I tried and failed and went with a metal cutting circular saw. It was a good option for the area though.
Ekodeck flooring - got it on special I would of liked to have used my Kreg jig for hidden fastening but it needs timber to drive the screws into, spacers worked well though. Irwin clamps with deck attachment and Macsim clever tool both worked well, can't say the same for my Bosch Philips head driver it refused to put the screws in so I had to use an Irwin as a better fit to the screws. Had to do some routing on the deck to clear the framing screws, Kreg table with Triton router and dust bucket with a elcheapie vacuum from Big W worked well. Happy with a low maintenance floor.
The shed - Screws together with oversized PK screws. A couple of sheets were punched out wrong for the screw holes, so hope was keeping them in. Should of been a 2 man job putting the frames up, I managed with the help of an Irwin corner clamp attachment and the restricted space so I could lean sides up against the main shed or the water tank, happy I have an angle drill it looked lonely sitting in the shop so I gave it a home and used it more than expected. Roof lined up better than expected. Taking the side screws out to fit the roof capping is a little strange feeling, made harder by restricted space. The door I had to change over to pop rivets, I had to fix both sides of the top and bottom frame as it was bending out. Screw did fall out of the wrongly punched holes so both that held the sheets together were replaced with pop rivets. Door clamp works well when your holding at ground level, not so well when hanging the door as it lets the door slip. Once it was fixed at one point the rest became easier only to find the z piece that makes the top doorway stopped the door closing properly, rivet in both corners fixed that but the z piece is slightly twisted. Centring the door lock and plate does clash with a door frame screw, it looks like the designer has never put one together... Screwing sheet metal together has been a no go area everywhere I have worked so I am not sure how well the screws will last. Joins so far seem solid but the sheets can breathe a bit easily. It looks solid enough but the old welder in me likes frames to screw into.
Bench it is cheap and nasty, not so nasty with decking top but still nasty.
Thanks for sharing your photos.
I am planning on doing a garden shed for the same purposes,
1. Possible for me to know why you when with the floor? instead of concrete flooring?
2. Possible for me to have a drawing and some instructions for materials you use for the project.
3. Lastly, possible for me to know if you used a shed from Bunnings/ similar hardware store and put together of did all from scratch.
Thanks a lot.
Let me also extend a very warm welcome to Workshop. I trust you will receive lots of helpful advice and inspiration from our community members for this project and many others to come in future.
Please let me know if you ever need a hand getting the most from the site.
1. The existing concrete has a 30mm slope and is a home for mould.
2 There is a set of videos https://spanbiltdirect.com.au/yardstore-installation-videos/
They could cut it with tinsnips, that was beyond what I could do so I used a metal cutting circular saw. I had enough left overs to fix the back fence rail.
I went with Ekodeck as it is low maitainence and the gaps would let some airflow to help dry the cement but on the downside anything you drop that is small enough to go through the gaps is gone forever.
I did use 4 of these to deal with the slope good-times-50mm-modular-adjustable-decking-foot_p8451224 There is Dyna bolts on the high end.
3.I went with a 30% discount sale at Supercheapauto. I could of built my own but I would have to make do without corner caps and work around bracing for the door and flashing.
4. I want to build a shade house so I have a choice of a custom build special order or DIY. There is some slope on that part of the yard so I need to test that before I make a final choice.
Welcome to Workshop. We're glad you could join in the discussion and trust you will receive lots of helpful information, advice and inspiration for your projects from our clever and creative members.
I will leave @Brad and other members to answer your question about constructing your shed floor, but I would encourage you to also check out the Ekodeck website as it has lots of helpful information, including videos, FAQs and product guides. The composite boards are made from over 90% reclaimed timber, bamboo and recycled plastic (High Density Polyethylene).
You might also like to search for other Ekodeck discussions on Workshop to read about the experiences of other members with the product, plus search for the experiences of members with other products like HardieDeck, which @Adam_W used for his timber-free deck beside a new pool.
Since @Jason has done most of the work for me.
I used the 1/4 spacer (6.35mm) for the floor and dropped them in to the bench as tight as I could.
I might drop a spacer back in now that we have had a change of season to see if they have changed, mine is not a large area though so I avoided butt joins.