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Hello everyone,
I'm trying to build a deck in our alfresco. At this point, it's still on the planning stage. I've seen a few posts here and there on this forum and would very much appreciate some further inputs to more experienced people than me.
My background: I work in the IT industry and "hardware" isn't really my thing lol. Anyway, I've built a few benches, and tables (nothing fancy) but not really built anything as big as an outdoor deck.
Project Alfresco: We have a small alfresco that my wife insists should have a deck. I agree, and I want to build it myself. Here's some bit of a challenge. The brick height is low, and also, "not even" from the side near the wall (corner of the doorway), it's around 130mm slopes down to 125mm the other side. Also, what would look good:(1) building the deck only on the slab of the alfresco, or (2) including the one outside as well?
Should I build a deck to included the ones outside the Alfresco slab?
height is 130mm from the left sloping down to 125mm to the right
Need suggestions on best way to build it, should I use this? https://www.bunnings.com.au/tuffblock-300-x-300-x-90mm-instant-foundation-system-deck-support_p24103... shour I do something else? Open to any suggestions at this point since this is my first build.
thank you.
Hello @Dave-1 ,
The other joists prior to this problematic one had 4 brackets spread evenly. (4.7m joist length)... You reckon if I drill this bracket right in the middle, it should be alright? Won't that make the bracket a bit "weak" (don't know the term). And that would mean, I'll only have one bolt on the timber.
and what do you mean by "bump up the bottom hole by 15mm"? This one too: "Or depending on how many brackets are short, only use one hole into the timber and add some more brackets instead. That way you will still have the same amount of attachments.". Not quite sure what you mean here.
Thanks!
Morning @yeahboo
Drill a new hole in the bracket in the area I have marked with a red ring. That will still give you two attach points per bracket. (use the top existing hole and the new hole. Use a Vice to hold and then drill the bracket or put the bracket over a spare piece of timber offcut (bracket facing down), clamp it and then drill it.
The other option is to only use the top hole but have more brackets along the length of the timber rail. If all four brackets you are using only have one hole each that can be used as you think the others are too close to the edge then instead of four brackets go for 6 brackets spaced evenly over the length with one bolt per one.
Dave
Hello @MitchellMc ,
I'm back! lol. This whole thing that I started in early 2024 is still not yet finished. LOL. Just wanted to ask if you have recommendations if I want the screws of the boards hidden. I don't like the usual one where the screws are seen. Are there any tools and screws you would recommend?
Thanks!
Good Evening @yeahboo
lol no one ever trully leaves the community!
There are tools/jigs that will hide the screws, I have not used any as yet.
I will let one of the others give recomendations on this
I had a look online and "cameo" pruducts came up but it sems that Bunnings dont stock them anymore. There definently will be a replacement system tho.
Dave
Hello @yeahboo
It's good to hear that you are still forging on with your decking project. I'm afraid @Dave-1 is right, normally I would suggest using the "Camo" hidden fixing tool, but it has been discontinued. Should you decide to upgrade your decking panels to Ekodeck composite decking panels you can use their Quickfix for Ekodeck 3mm 100lm Kit - Timber Joists. It provides a concealed fixing option for a clean, modern look. The boards are automatically spaced 3mm by the clips - no need to measure each gap. It also comes in the larger 6mm gap size.
But if you choose to stay with timber, I can only suggest using standard decking screws in combination with Macsim 10g Clever Tool Standard Head - Blister Pack along with Titan Install Decking And Joist Template Spacer. These two tools will make your decking panel installation much more convenient.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Hello @EricL @MitchellMc ,
I still wasn't able to work on it again.
However, now I can see some discoloration ont he timbers that are exposed to the sun and rain. Is this something I need to worry about? or I can proceed with the boards (hopefully, soon!). NOTE: The timber don't touch the ground so I'm 100% sure they are not soaked in water (unless of course the rain is nonstop)
Thanks
Hello @yeahboo
If you wish to add an extra level of protection for the top of your decking frame, I suggest applying CAgroup 50mm x 20m Bearer Protector G-Tape. This will prevent water from sitting on top of the timber frame and soaking in. In regards to your question, if you used H3 treated timber there is nothing to worry about. Some discoloration may occur, but it will not affect the strength of the timber.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Hello @EricL @MitchellMc ,
I think I'm finally ready to board lol. It's been more than a year. It frame looks like this now. I know I've asked it before and @EricL said this should be OK.
I also have a bit of a challenge, I bought the Spotted Gum boards that are 135mm, and realised that the ones I used on the side to copy what Mitch did in one of his videos, it would cover the frame. haha. so, I plan to use the 86mm for the sides that go straight. that should be OK right? Thanks!
Looking great @yeahboo! You need to add some joists around the post as you have nothing to screw the decking board onto there.
That's fine to use 86mm on the sides.
You're almost there and I'm sure the deck will look amazing. I can't wait to see.
Mitchell
Hello @MitchellMc ,
Yes! Thank you for reminding me. I still have some timber for that. What should be the approach for this? A square around it? Can you help me visualise with a rough drawing?
Thanks!
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