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Hi All,
In a couple of weeks I'm having a solar hybrid inverter, 8kw battery, and gateway installed on the western wall of my house, and will require sun protection as this wall gets the afternoon summer sun from midday to 9PM and roasts. The modular inverter and battery will measure 80cm wide x 60cm high x 26cm deep.
I've searched online and found it very difficult to find anything off the shelf which will fit, except for this ProtectorAl 1000 x 830 x 495mm Monument Steel Slat Airconditioner Cover which I like the look of. I ordered one through my local store who promptly called me to say they don't have any in stock after all. So, I'm here to bounce this off you guys to see if I should order one of those for delivery from another store, or if I should build something myself. I am not good at building things but I'll have a go.
As this is going to be a solar inverter and battery surround it is important to use hardwood, metal or cement sheeting in case of a fire, definitely NO pine. Now, the western wall of my fibro house has hardwood studs, and if you can imagine a basic four legged IKEA side table and the top has a cut out so that there is just a shape left about the same thickness as the legs, which I can then screw some corrugated iron onto, and screw the legs to the wall, I should be in business. It would ideally be something like 1.6m wide x 1.2m high, and be 50cm off the wall. Would the 42 x 42mm 2.7m Merbau Pre-Oiled Solid Post be suitable for this? It has to be strong come rain, hail, shine, or STRONG wind.
Alternatively, what about using 2x Jack 1800 x 900mm Oxy-Shield Spiral Screen Panels side by side, which would give me coverage of 1800mm x 1800mm. The maximum wall width available is 1900. I just can't work out how I would attach them together and then to the wall.
What about making the frame out of 20mm galvanised pipe? The available lengths and adapters would make it reasonably light and fireproof too. I just don't know how I'd securely attach the Jack panels to the piping. What would be great about this solution is that the galvanised malls at the top could sit on strong square hooks (those are just an example) or bolt threads, and at the bottom I could somehow have threads screwed in to the house with enough thread left protruding for the bottom malls to slide over and secure with a washer and bolt to lock the frame in place. What kind of bolt/thread would that be? I've just found this dog bed at Bunnings which has the same frame style as what I'm thinking of making out of the Brasshards galvanised pipe.
I'm looking forward to hearing some ideas. I think the panel on pipe option is my favourite, but it would not allow me room to access the front panels of the inverter, I'd have to remove it whenever I needed access...
I wonder if the panels could be hinged so that they would swing out to one side when required? 🤔
Thanks.
Great to hear from you @BoeingFan.
It would be a good idea to start by checking if the hybrid inverter manufacturer has any guidance on what form the protection should take. Since it sounds like they are the ones specifying that the unit needs shielding, they are in the best position to advise on what is acceptable. You want to make sure you are meeting any requirements for spacing from the wall, airflow, and how enclosed the unit can be. Without that guidance, there is a risk that even a well-built cover could actually make things worse. For example, a steel cover, even though it looks strong, will absorb heat in the sun and radiate it onto the inverter, which could increase the operating temperature rather than protect it.
Given that, an open, ventilated solution is likely the safest. A wooden screen made from hardwood like Merbau, rather than pine, would provide strength and fire resistance while allowing airflow. If you are considering using the 42 x 42 mm Merbau posts, I would probably go larger, such as 90 mm posts, especially if the screen is going to be free-standing a little off the wall, and ensure the panels are securely attached. Decorative Merbau panels could work well for the front, but make sure the structure is robust enough to withstand strong wind, rain, and sun exposure.
If you decide to build, the key points are maintaining adequate ventilation around the inverter and battery, using durable hardwood, and complying with any minimum clearance requirements from the manufacturer. Before cutting or fixing anything, it would be wise to get written guidance from them so you know exactly what is allowed. This will also protect your warranty and ensure the unit operates safely.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
So I've been thinking that perhaps an awning cover would be doable.
With a couple of square posts bugle screwed into the house studs, with some heavy duty strap hinges at the top, and a 180cm square frame with some colourbond on top of that, and a stay to lock it into place, I think that would suffice until the day comes I can build a steel lean-to with a roof on it.
Hello @BoeingFan
It's great to see you back with another project on the go! I believe your idea of an awning is a great way to shade your battery from the heat of the sun. Plus, it will not cost you an arm and a leg to assemble. My best advice is to make sure that the wood that you use is rated H3 for outdoor use. I suggest using a flat piece of cardboard to create a mock-up of the awning, which will help you determine the ideal size and the most effective angle for positioning it.
Please remember to keep the recommended cover distance by the manufacturer.
Eric
Thanks so much @EricL 😀
The other consideration I've thought about is to have a box frame which puts shade panels out front to stop direct sunlight, whilst maximising side airflow. My only concern with this style is that the weight of the timber fighting gravity may be its own worst enemy. A fabricated metal cage may be lighter, I'm not sure of that though. Here's some draft thoughts on that style.
Hi @BoeingFan
The plan looks good but would definitely build it with louvered type walls to promote airflow. Best advice as always is to do a cost analysis of the parts.
Eric
Concreting in a post is a relatively easy job, @BoeingFan. As long as you have a level to check plumb and a couple of timber sticks for braces, you typically have plenty of time with standard concrete to get things in the right position. Even with quick-set, as long as you take the time to get the post nice and straight before placing the concrete, there's not much that can go wrong.
Here's a helpful step-by-step guide: How to set a post.
Mitchell
