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Hi All,
In a couple of weeks I'm having a solar hybrid inverter, 8kw battery, and gateway installed on the western wall of my house, and will require sun protection as this wall gets the afternoon summer sun from midday to 9PM and roasts. The modular inverter and battery will measure 80cm wide x 60cm high x 26cm deep.
I've searched online and found it very difficult to find anything off the shelf which will fit, except for this ProtectorAl 1000 x 830 x 495mm Monument Steel Slat Airconditioner Cover which I like the look of. I ordered one through my local store who promptly called me to say they don't have any in stock after all. So, I'm here to bounce this off you guys to see if I should order one of those for delivery from another store, or if I should build something myself. I am not good at building things but I'll have a go.
As this is going to be a solar inverter and battery surround it is important to use hardwood, metal or cement sheeting in case of a fire, definitely NO pine. Now, the western wall of my fibro house has hardwood studs, and if you can imagine a basic four legged IKEA side table and the top has a cut out so that there is just a shape left about the same thickness as the legs, which I can then screw some corrugated iron onto, and screw the legs to the wall, I should be in business. It would ideally be something like 1.6m wide x 1.2m high, and be 50cm off the wall. Would the 42 x 42mm 2.7m Merbau Pre-Oiled Solid Post be suitable for this? It has to be strong come rain, hail, shine, or STRONG wind.
Alternatively, what about using 2x Jack 1800 x 900mm Oxy-Shield Spiral Screen Panels side by side, which would give me coverage of 1800mm x 1800mm. The maximum wall width available is 1900. I just can't work out how I would attach them together and then to the wall.
What about making the frame out of 20mm galvanised pipe? The available lengths and adapters would make it reasonably light and fireproof too. I just don't know how I'd securely attach the Jack panels to the piping. What would be great about this solution is that the galvanised malls at the top could sit on strong square hooks (those are just an example) or bolt threads, and at the bottom I could somehow have threads screwed in to the house with enough thread left protruding for the bottom malls to slide over and secure with a washer and bolt to lock the frame in place. What kind of bolt/thread would that be? I've just found this dog bed at Bunnings which has the same frame style as what I'm thinking of making out of the Brasshards galvanised pipe.
I'm looking forward to hearing some ideas. I think the panel on pipe option is my favourite, but it would not allow me room to access the front panels of the inverter, I'd have to remove it whenever I needed access...
I wonder if the panels could be hinged so that they would swing out to one side when required? 🤔
Thanks.
Hi @EricL
I did float the idea of using the Brasshards galvanised piping with the drilled malls but then ran into the idea of how to attach the panels to the piping.
The panels would ideally sit proud on the front side of the pipe frame to act as the restricter prohibiting the panels from turning inward, but also something that the panels could be locked to in order to avoid flapping in the wind.I just have no idea of how to hinge panels to the pipes, or to create a locking mechanism; I could use a slide bolt if I got the merbau panels but I don't know what I'd use if I got the Jack panels.
What are your thoughts on this design?
I think your main sagging risk is really only across that horizontal 1.8 metre span @BoeingFan. If the uprights are well fixed, the vertical load is not the issue, it’s the horizontal member wanting to deflect over time. The first thing I would look at is the pipe size and wall thickness. Stepping up one size in diameter or going to a heavier gauge galvanised pipe will usually give you enough stiffness to comfortably span 1.8 metres without noticeable sag, while still keeping the overall frame relatively light compared to hardwood or steel box section.
If you still feel there is movement, the simplest next step is to introduce a discreet mid brace between the top and bottom horizontal pipes. That should stiffen the frame and reduce long-term sag without adding much weight. That approach is often more efficient than oversizing every member.
For fixing or hinging the panels to the pipe frame, galvanised half or full pipe-saddles are probably your best option. These can be screwed directly to the back of the panels and clamped around the pipe, which avoids drilling the pipe itself and keeps things adjustable. Using saddles also gives you a solid fixing point so the panels can sit proud of the frame, act as a stop to prevent inward movement, and be secured tightly to stop wind flapping.
Overall, I’d lean toward slightly heavier-gauge galvanised pipe and strategic bracing rather than heavier materials. It keeps the structure light, durable, and much easier to work with while still being plenty strong for the span you’re dealing with.
Mitchell
It’s a bit tricky to picture exactly how you’re planning to fix the panels to the pipework from your description @BoeingFan, but I can clarify a few things. When I mentioned heavier gauge, I was referring to either using a thicker-walled pipe or stepping up the pipe diameter—so 25mm instead of 20mm would give you a stiffer, more stable frame.
Regarding the saddle clips, whether you use full or half saddles really depends on how your merbau panels will sit relative to the pipework. If the panels are going to overhang the pipe slightly, a full saddle can be used since you’ll have timber on both sides to attach it to. If the panels finish flush with the edge of the pipe, you’d normally need a half saddle to secure it properly, but these can be tricky because there’s nothing for a horizontal screw to bite into. There’s not really a T-hinge with a saddle end, as saddles are primarily meant to hold pipework against a solid surface.
You’re right that if the panels are just sitting in saddles on the vertical pipes, over time they could slip down towards the bottom saddle by the T-junction. To prevent that, it’s often better to secure the panels to the top horizontal pipe, which stops downward movement. If you’re stacking multiple panels vertically, you can join them together with a small timber graft behind them. Another option is to pre-drill the panels and screw through their front face with self-tapping screws directly into the metal pipe.
A practical trick is to place a saddle at the bottom of the merbau panels right before the T-junction. This way, the bottom saddle governs the vertical position, and the panels sit securely without sliding. Overall, you’re on the right track, but the exact method depends on whether your panels overhang the pipe or finish flush.
Mitchell
