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Hi I'm installing aluminium pool fencing this is the current setup i think im going to go for.(ive set it up in photo attached)
i want to avoid using chemset into my limestone retaining wall as its brittle and to get the rods into the block itself and miss the caps on the top would leave a gap greater than 100mm. So im thinking of having the post concreted in as close to the end of the panel as i can get it and having around 900mm overhanging the post to make it butt up to the existing glass panel. I know having the section overhanging the panel isnt ideal situation ( or is it not too big of a deal?) but does anyone have any suggestions . Also aware that the glass panel next to it will need to be replaced with a raked panel for compliance. Thanks and appreciate any feedback
Hello @burksbackyard
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about your pool fence.
I propose placing a RapidFence 50 x 50 x 1600mm Dark Grey Capped Square Tube Flanged Fence Post right next to the glass panel and anchor the fence from there. I suggest removing some of the pavers to make room for a proper concrete footing. I suggest placing the second post near the palm tree and the third post near the shed. I recommend putting in a concrete footing for all three posts. This will save you from having to anchor into your limestone retaining wall.
I strongly advise taking accurate measurements to make sure that it can be installed with no gap between the glass panel and aluminium fence. I would also speak to the local pool fence inspector to make sure that your proposal is acceptable.
Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1, @Nailbag, @Remarka6le and @Noyade for their recommendations.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Hey @burksbackyard ,
You’re right to avoid fixing into the limestone, it’s too brittle to give you proper holding strength. The better option is to pull up a couple of pavers and set new 50×50 posts in proper concrete footings underneath. A 200 mm round hole about 500–600 mm deep filled with post-mix will give you plenty of strength and keeps everything compliant. That way the load is carried straight down through the post into the footing, rather than into the limestone wall.
With the panel, you can run it up to the glass as you planned, just make sure the overhang is no more than about 900 mm. That’s the limit under pool fencing rules and still needs to finish with no more than a 100 mm gap between the aluminium and the glass. If you’re worried about flex on the overhanging end, you can add a small support leg under the bottom rail to keep it steady, or trim the panel slightly shorter.
If it were mine I’d core out for a footing right next to the glass and another one by the palm, so the aluminium is supported close to both ends. That gives you a solid, clean finish and avoids any issues with compliance down the track.
Thanks heaps for your support/ advice!
I was thinking of having the two posts here as marked i think it should be very soild as its the radiator panel and feels very strong but if it was to flex i could core drilling out and install the post at end
Good Evening @burksbackyard
@EricL 's suggestion of a fixed post on the end to support the tubular fence panel sounds like the way to go, That panel as you have said also needs to be changed over to keep that height at the correct level next to the retaining wall so kids cannot climb over it.
I like the idea of new concrete footings for the fence posts to go into. Tho am wondering iof the palm tree is too close in the current configuration to be passed for the safety test? Anything that can be climbed on to climb over the pool fence is a no no as far as I have read. Would it be possible to shift the tubular fence so the pool pump shed will be on the inside of the pool area and the fence cut straight through the middle of that garden bed? That way you cant climb on something to climb over the black fence?
I think the 900mm overhang will be too flexible for someone to swing on it with their body weight, thats the main reason I like the fixed post suggestion.
Dave
Thanks Eric just to confirm your talking about lifting a couple pavers then pouring a small footing and the bolting down the flanged post into the concrete?
Yes, in fact I'm suggesting that you dig deeper to create a proper concrete footing for the post. This will prevent it from being easily toppled over.
Eric
thanks this is the issue im facing with going into the paved area there is very little room for any footings or holes for where the post needs to go
How solid are the pavers there @burksbackyard? Do you have enough room to bolt a flanged post into them? Provided the fence is already well supported with the other posts, fixing it to the paver might be an option.
Mitchell
Not very solid unfortunately they’re just sitting on sand
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