Share
Hi All!
I've got an area along the front of the house that I would like to lay brick pavers down (given by the red shaded area) connecting to existing concrete pavement uphill and to a paved front porch downhill.
I was going to use this method: https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/t5/How-To/How-to-lay-paving-for-a-path/ba-p/34089 (ensuring a slope away from the house for drainage) and have also been consulting this answer: https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/t5/Outdoor/How-to-lay-pavers-at-side-of-house/td-p/275607
I still have a few questions:
The air vent up hill is very close to the existing concrete pavement - do I simply ensure the finished paved level remains below this vent? I can't seem to locate the damp proof course indicated by a dark line in the brickwork.
Any suggestions on how to handle the downpipe? I was going to surround that with pebbles
Do I need to leave a gap between the brick wall of the house and the pavers I install, or can I butt right up against the wall and seal the joint with this approach: https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/t5/How-To/How-to-fill-a-joint-in-a-concrete-slab/ba-p/224897
Can I use mortar to join with the existing concrete pavement and paved porch? Or should I use the approach above?
A few more photos of the site for reference:
Many thanks!!
Hello @farhanr
You’re on the right track using the Bunnings Workshop guides for laying brick pavers. Since you’re connecting the new path to both a concrete pavement uphill and a paved porch downhill, it’s essential to get the drainage and wall clearances right from the start.
Your main concern should be moisture management. The finished paved level must sit below any nearby air vent, with at least 50mm clearance to ensure airflow isn’t blocked. This is critical for underfloor ventilation and to prevent moisture issues. You also need to stay at least 75mm below the damp proof course (DPC), even if you can’t locate it visually (please check your local council's rules and regulations for compliance). If there's no visible dark line in the brickwork, it’s safest to assume the DPC is around two brick courses above ground level. This clearance protects against rising damp and meets standard building practice.
For drainage, maintain a minimum fall of 1:100, meaning a 10mm drop per metre sloping away from the house. If you’re paving right up to the house wall, it’s best not to butt the pavers directly against the bricks and seal with concrete. Instead, leave a small 5–10mm gap. You can fill this with coarse sand, gravel, or a flexible sealant like Sikaflex 11FC or Pro with a foam backing rod. This creates a weather-resistant joint that accommodates natural movement and avoids trapping moisture against the wall.
If space is tight next to the house or a vent, consider a gravel strip or narrow trench along the edge. This improves drainage, looks neat, and avoids raising the paving too close to critical wall elements. Even a 75–100mm wide gravel buffer works well in most cases. Around the downpipe, surrounding it with pebbles is a practical solution, provided you ensure that water flows freely and is directed away from the house.
To join the new pavers with the existing concrete path and porch, you can use mortar, but it must be carefully done to prevent cracking due to movement. A better option might be to leave a small expansion gap and fill it using the backer rod and Sikaflex method shown in the Bunnings joint-filling guide. This approach is more flexible, helps prevent cracks, and looks tidy.
Overall, your plan is solid—just keep clearances in mind, use flexible materials where possible, and direct all water away from the brickwork.
If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.
Eric
Thanks as always for the detailed reply Eric.
I had a look under the house and it looks like the DPC is one course below the air vent:
This means the existing finished concrete level uphill is above the DPC:
Seems like this isn't to standard...
Should I be looking to break up part of the old concrete pathway and re-level to at least 75mm below the DPC?
Hello @farhanr
This does present a bit of an issue to address. If the concrete walkway was built over the DPC was the brick wall waterproofed to prevent hydrostatic pressure from occurring on the other side of the brick wall? The only way to find out is to observe and see if moisture is coming out of the wall during heavy rains. There would also be signs such as mould growth and small water puddles at the bottom of the brick wall. But sometimes these tell-tale signs don't always occur.
Let me tag our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Good morning @farhanr
@EricL 's instructions really cant be added to, and it comes down to personal preference with how close you go with pavers to the brick wall. I have my pavers off my wall by about 10-20mm mainly to account for any inaccuracies that I have with a straight line of the bricks or pavers.
The concrete path you have above the damp course, as long as you cant see mould or wet areas from under the house I relly wouldnt worry about that section. I would keep an eye on it yes, but in reality the effort to remove, drop teh surface level and then replace is not worth it unless its causing an issue.
Im not keen on using mortar with the pavers, even at meeting points of the path due to natural movement, @EricLs suggestion of a gap is a wise move. As @Nailbag mentions an outer edge is needed for the path, I would go for a sunken timber trim or hard garden edge over concrete but thats just because i am not too keen on concret 
Personal preference really, but it does need an edge to stop paver drift.
Dave
