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Hi all,
we need to replace our rotten front deck railing and have decided to use beautiful hardwood (Blackbutt).
I've been educating myself on how to install a new railing, and most videos I've watched just screw or nail through the railing cap into the upper rail (both meet like an L on its side). But I'm reluctant to do that to our hardwood in order to maintain its beauty, and also to avoid any grooves where rainwater could collect.
I was thinking of using hardwood dowels together with liquid nails -- would that be a comparable solution to screws?
Thank you!
Hi @TheHandySqirrel,
I'd love to see the materials you are working with, firstly so I can admire them and secondly so I can get a better picture of how they will go together. I am fairly confident that I understand, but it would be best to see just to be certain.
Your plan to use hardwood dowels sounds good, and unless there is some intricacy I am missing, it should work perfectly fine as long as the dowels are tight in their holes and everything lines up well. The only thing I would consider changing is to use a thicker dimension of dowel if at all possible. The larger the dowel, the more glue can be applied, making the connection stronger and with the increased size, the dowels will be harder to snap.
I would, however, suggest using this Gorilla Ultimate Wood Glue or a comparable exterior grade wood glue as opposed to Liquid Nails. Liquid Nails is designed to be a little bit flexible, which is not really what you are after in this situation.
I love decorative hardwoods, especially blackbutt, so I can't wait to see your project get underway.
Jacob
Hi @JacobZ,
thank you for your advice, I'm going to get some external wood glue instead. Here are two photos, one of the Blackbutt hardwood (for you to admire
and a general view of the site.
I want the railing cap (140x35) and the upper rail (70x35) to meet at 90 degrees so they form an "L", this avoids them bending the same way over time.
Are you sure to use thicker dowels? I considered 19mm initially, but was concerned that when I hammer them into the upper rail's short side (35mm) I don't have enough material left and right.
Beautiful Blackbutt with pencil round edges.
A temporary sleeper replaces the rotten post.
I believe it should work, but your holes on the rail must be precise so that both sides have the same thickness. If you have some offcuts you can try to practice this part first to make sure everything will work.
Eric
Update:
I have decided not to use dowels, mainly because they'd make the installation complicated and need precise alignment of both holes. Testing the wood glue was also not very satisfying with hardwood.
I have now used galvanised screws and will fill the holes with wood filler prior to sanding the rails.
Hello @TheHandySqirrel
Thank you for the update, please don't forget to post a photo update once you have connected th railing cap.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
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