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thinking about cutting it horizontally just under the top drawer as it's where a lot of the pieces are joined together anyway.
would be grateful for any advice on:
- what type of handsaw to use
- how to stick it back together
- how to best disguise the "seams"
thanks
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @chumchurrum. It's fantastic to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about cutting cabinetry.
Cutting just under the top drawer is likely the easiest spot. It gives you access to the front, sides, and internal structure.
For the cut itself, I’d recommend using a pull saw, such as the IRWIN Double Edge Pull Saw. Its thin blade will cause minimal damage to the cabinet. For any internal cuts in the middle section, use masking tape over the surfaces to protect them while cutting.
Disguising the seam when you put it back together can be tricky. Often, the thinnest saw and a straight cut are enough to make the seam fairly unobtrusive once the top section is re-attached to the lower. Using putties or fillers might actually make the seam more noticeable if the colour doesn’t match perfectly, so it’s usually best to see how it looks first.
If you do want to try filling it, be very careful. Any filler or stain that doesn’t match exactly can stand out more than the cut lines themselves. Keeping your cuts straight and level will give the best chance of a neat fit without needing to touch it further.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Just to clarify, do you want to permanently attach the two halves, or might you need to move them out of the area again in the future @chumchurrum?
If you just want to pin them in place, you could use straight brackets on the back of the unit. Half on the top section, half on the bottom and screw through them to hold the halves together. You could also add small angled brackets inside to screw the top half to the bottom for extra stability.
If you want to permanently reattach the sections, you could apply wood glue along the seam you cut through, then secure with screws for a stronger bond.
To start, I’d suggest something simple like four Zenith mending plates on the back, attached to the solid timber pieces. This should pin the top and bottom halves together and prevent them from shifting, while still allowing flexibility if you need to undo it later.
Mitchell
