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Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @hankkloppenborg. It's terrific to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about re-sizing a door.
You technically could extend the door from 1960 to 2040mm, but in practice, it’s not the most straightforward option. Internal doors like the Hume Doors & Timber 820 x 2040 x 35mm Internal Door Primed MDF Flush H1 are generally quite budget-friendly, and while I’m all for re-using what you have, modifying things to make this particular door fit could end up being more work than it’s worth.
To adapt it, you’d need to source and fix suitable timber to extend the height, graft and secure it properly, fill any joins or gaps, then sand everything smooth before undercoating and painting. By the time you go through all of that, you may find it’s actually simpler and neater to purchase a standard-sized door that matches the cavity slider kit.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Hi @hankkloppenborg,
When you say pad out the rail, as in, add some 38mm timber at the top to mimic the door, or perhaps use extension fittings to reach the top of your shorter door?
Mitchell
Hi @hankkloppenborg,
Whether that undersized door is at metric or imperial sizing likely doesn't make too much difference. You can certainly make it work, but it will require some adjustments.
A 1500mm wide opening is far wider than what a standard cavity slider would accommodate. Even an 820mm cavity slider would be well off the mark. At 1500mm, you would consider having a cavity slider on each side that meets in the middle.
Mitchell
You can adjust the length of the cavity unit @hankkloppenborg to suit your 1400mm opening. Just make sure that once you’ve shortened the rail, you fit a limiter so the door doesn’t slide off the back. This could just be a block of timber fixed in place.
If you need to adjust any of the framing on the cavity unit itself, it’s important to ensure it remains rigid; otherwise, the door may not glide smoothly or could bind inside the pocket.
Mitchell
