How to replace skirting boards?

[HJS]

Hello!

Our skirting boards have seen better days. I feel replacing them should be a DIY project I can tackle but I would like some training on what to do/ what equipment I need etc. Any tips?

Regards, HJS

[JacobZ]

Hi @HJS,

Replacing skirting boards is absolutely something you can do yourself, and luckily, we have a handy step by step guide to follow.

Check out How To Install Skirting Boards for guidance through this project.

You're going to need a marking tool, a tape measure, a mitre saw and a finish nailer. The finish nailer can be hired through our hire shop if you don't want to purchase your own.

Let me know if you have any specific questions about the process. I am happy to help further if required.

Allow me to tag our experienced members @Nailbag and @Dave-1 to see if they have any tips they can share.

Jacob

[Dave-1]

Good Evening @HJS 

That link that @JacobZ has shown pretty much shows everything you will need to know This past few weekends I have just been finishing of my skirts that I started a decade agao

I would undercoat your skirts first (Just makes it easier)

Hammer and bullet head nails work just as well as a nailgun.

(Be careful hammering in as if you mis**bleep** you will mark the skirt and have to use plaster to smooth it.)

Square joins would be easier for sure. Otherwise a compound saw might be a woirthwhile investment. It mad eit a dream for my skirts. Being able to change the angle of my cut made life so easy.

Sometimes walls are NOT square. so check before cutting.

I was nervous about doing the silastic on top of the skirt. I used a plastic bag over my finger to make it easier and cleaner. Watched a youtube video, then ran a bead of white silastic along the top (walls undulate 🐵 for about 500mm and then ran my finger along the top inside the bag. Went through several bags but didnt have the hassel of glue on my fingers. (I also licked the bag to make it wet and that worked nicely) 

I would do final touch up and painting after the silastic I think.

Rem to take the locking pin of the glue gun off while you run your finger along the top of the skirt, as it will keep oozing. Make sure you have something to catch the ooze. 

Worth the headache of trying as when you have done them the place looks 120% better

One of the easier reno jobs that makes you look like you have out of this worId skills I would say.

Dave

[Nailbag]

Hi @HJS 

As at @JacobZ said that replacing skirting is a very reasonably easy task even for a novice. The hardest part of the task is removing the old without damaging the plasterboard. So from someone who has done this task countless times here are my tips:

• It's helpful to understand whats behind the plasterboard when removing skirting. The bottom of there timber frame will be 45mm high. Studs are positioned to roughly 450mm centres. Then plasterboard is fixed which is often spaced upwards of 10mm off the floor. Then the skirting. See photo below.

• Use a Stanley style knife and run it along the top edge of the skirting where it meets the wall. Don't be afraid to go deep as this will ensure that as the skirting is being removed it doesn't pull the plasterboard paper with it.

• There are two way to then remove the skirting. Tapping in with a rubber mallet a flat bladed tool like this. (sorry Bunnings you still don't carry these yet) in-between the skirt and the wall. and pry the skirt out. But it's VERY important you align the blade with a stud for extra leverage support or you will push it through the plasterboard.

• The other method which most people don't use but its the one I always use, which is to pry the skirting up from under using a tool like this. I tap the slight angled end under with a hammer and work my way along levering it up. Now it might for some go against the fact there are brads securing it horizontally, but they are only thin gauged. They bend very easily as the skirt is pulled up and I never have an issue with caved in plasterboard to repair. I have done both methods and this is my preference.

• Once you install the new skirting, don't be too concerned there are gaps between its top edge and the wall. Simply run a tin bead of white gap filler along the edge. Then with your finger in a clean damp cloth, just run it along the edge to neaten it up. Once dried this will be paintable leaving you a very professional finish.

Nailbag

[HJS]

Thanks Dave!

Lots of good tips. I'm glad they skirtings have made a difference. Much as I would love to have our floors replaced (whole other story) along with skirting boards, that's on the back burner for a few years at least due to budget and logistics - good to know knew skirts will make all the difference.

Kind regards,

Heather

[HJS]

Thanks Nailbag,

We have a steel frame. Does that make any difference re studs?

I think my biggest challenge will be the variation in floor heights between tile and floating floor (about 3 mm) in some areas, and the use of quad on floating floors . Any tips for dealing with that?

Would you recommend paining before replacing skirting boards or other way around? Some areas will need some very minor plaster repair where old skirts have pulled away (they are at least 24 years old and we have reactive clay soil so a little bit of movement, I think). Kind regards, heather

[HJS]

Thank you Jacob,

I have replied to Nailbag and Dave below with some additional questions you may be able to help with.

Kind regards,

Heather

[EricL]

Hello @HJS 

Let me tag @Nailbag to make them aware of your questions. I would recommend repairing and painting the wall before you install your skirting board. 

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[Nailbag]

Hi @HJS 

The steel frame maybe problematic for you as there are several ways the skirting could be attached. Nailed, screwed, glued or a combination of these. Typically these days, chippies use liquid nails and hardened nails for fixing skirting boards and architraves. They are readily available for most guns in 38mm and 45mm. You would just need to select the right collation type for the gun you hire. @JacobZ might be better placed to advise he based on his commercial building background.

To remove the old skirts and arcs if they have also been glued could pull away more of the plasterboard. So make both a deep cut vertically and a few mm horizontally. Use a stud finder to locate the studs, then a cheap new chisel across the face of the timber to find the nail or screw. If they are nailed, then use that tool I first linked, but tap it vertically down between the plasterboard and timbers. But ONLY lever out where the is a stud.

Where there is floating floor, you will need to remove the quad nailed in front. Where there is tiles, you will have to use a chisel at the end of the wall to split it and work your way down to a point where you can start to lever it up. There is no easy method here or exacting advice, you just have to use plenty of muscle and the sharper end of the prybar.

I often use one of these mini caulking guns from Monarch as it allow me to carry a rage of adhesives. They are a great little gun to use when you're new to caulking especially with the white filler as it never oozes once you release the trigger. And the filler works very well and easy to smooth out.

Nailbag