My wash basin tap has been constantly leaking/dripping and I tried re-seating tool but still keeps leaking, so I have bought Hydro seal tap seat replacement kit. I am just not sure if we remove the old seat or we thread on the old seat and put new seat on top of the old one. Thanks
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @Chuckyboi. It's brilliant to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about tap re-seating.
With the Hydro Seal kit, you do not remove the old seat. The original seat is part of the tap body and is moulded into the fitting, so there is nothing you can take out. What the kit does is give you a new brass seating surface that threads neatly into the existing one.
You use the supplied tool to cut a matching thread inside the old seat. Once that thread is made, the new seat simply screws down onto it. When tightened, it becomes the new flat, clean surface that your washer compresses against. This restores the seal and solves the dripping without needing to replace the whole tap body.
If the tap was still leaking after using a reseating tool, it usually means the old seat is too worn or pitted for resurfacing, which is exactly when a Hydro Seal insert is the right solution. The important point is that the new seat goes on top of the old one, and you do not try to pull anything out. The insert becomes the new working surface inside the tap.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Thanks for your prompt response. I think it is happening cause of this. So you reckon I should try re-seating tool again or just go-ahead with seat replacement. 😊
It looks like the tap seat has some fairly substantial damage, so relying solely on a reseating tool might not fully fix it @Chuckyboi. You could try giving it another go with the reseating tool to see if it smooths out the marks, but the risk is that you might grind down too much or still leave damage behind. Using the tap seat replacement kit is likely the safer option, as it puts a completely new surface in place and should stop leaks. Just be aware that if the area you’ve marked is actually a crack going through the seat, even a new seat might still leak, and in that case, a plumber would need to replace the underlying pipework. It’s a bit of trial and error; start with a little more grinding, and if that doesn’t work, move to the replacement kit.
Mitchell
Thanks a ton. Will give it a shot and let you know how it went.
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