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Woooo @mikebarker
Nice design 
No suggestions for improvements and your worry about the overhang and the fiddly covering up, well you have the answer you designed yourself Your eave can be covered with a piece of hardie plank or similar board and kept at that same angle of the rafters. The holes if you are worried about the inside can be filled with pieces of timber to the roof line/tin.
So the last pic that has the circle to show the meausurement, the hardie plank I am thinking of (Or similar) you just run the whole length across all the rafters .
I relaly like it. It look solid, just went back through the pics You dont have any stays or cross stays to help firm up the frame? You can use wire strap or put it inset into the timber studs for the walls diagonally.
Dave
Hi @mikebarker,
Love the design. I'm no structural engineer, but the only thing that pops out for me, as @Dave-1 mentioned, is the lack of noggins. You'll need some bracing to firm up those walls.
I can't wait to see your project start coming together.
Mitchell
Hi @Dave-1 and @MitchellMc, ok noted! I've added noggins to the stud work. I might consider strapping if it's cheaper, I'll see when I make my order.
As luck would have it, the gaps in the roof were 71mm, so I've added some 70 x 35 blocking in there. Great fit!
In terms of covering the eve, the gap is 110mm. I wonder if I should tweak that gap so that it's the size of a standard size to avoid having to make a long cut? What standard-size plank is nearby, 90mm? 140mm?
Hi @mikebarker,
Unfortunately, the cement planks do not come that thin, so you'd likely have to cut one down to fit the space. Have you used an angle grinder before? If so, it wouldn't be particularly difficult to cut the length. Remember your PPE, including a face mask and eye and hearing protection.
Mitchell
Ah fair enough, yeah I have an angle grinder
Morning @mikebarker
Id look at it this way, the more you use treated timber especially for an outside shed the longer it will last. I know I factor in $$ when I am building stuff and always look to shaving some price off if I can. Usuallly I dread having to come back and fix something down the track so will try to do the best I can at that point. (pine decking verse merabau decking type deal.)
As to the 35mm fascia boards, I thought most were around 19mm? Just had a look and 30mm seems to be a lot more common Live and learn
Dave
Hi @mikebarker,
I'm not sure what size you've decided to go with, but our fascia boards are already H3-treated. So if their sizing works, that would be golden. Also, so you know, our entire range of pre-primed LOSP DAR timber is suitably treated for external use; it just needs to be painted. Plenty of other treated options exist in that range for your fascia boards if our fascia boards don't suit.
As fascia boards are not a structural member, they're typically only 19mm thick.
Mitchell
Hi @mikebarker
I totally agree 45mm thick timber is not only too much, but also very heavy. For comparison, you can imagine a standard kitchen benchtop panel is conservatively sized at 32mm thickness and is very heavy even when cut down to size. You can imagine having that weight anchored to the end of your roofing frame. I propose going with the 19mm fascia boards which will be more than sufficient.
In regards to flashing, you can custom order what you need from the store's special orders desk. I suggest bringing your measurements to the team at the special orders desk and asking for a custom quote for flashing. But if it does not have to be custom, I suggest visiting your local store and seeing what's available on the shelf.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
