Great, let us know how you go @Hansi.
And apologies for the over-eager content filter last night. We try to ensure Workshop is a safe place for all, but it was a bit over zealous on that occasion. Fixed now.
I have just started to clad a fibro house with fence palings. I am using well worn and used ones and careful to get ones that are nice and straight. They are suitably weathered and less likely to warp and bend. Yes they require filling in places with quality product and the gaps between can be filled with Selley's no more gaps in brown. They can be drilled and countersunk to stop them splitting and I've used stainless steel screws. It is still a work in progress as it is labour intensive but thats where the savings are. The wood should be treated with 3 coats of Feast Watson Woodshield oil which penetrates and protects the wood and then if wanted a coat of sating varnish. I have done one section flat with no lapping and am still contemplating lapping the remainder.
I would love to hear from someone as to whether it would be preferable to lap the palings which was how I found this website.
Welcome to Workshop. We're pleased that you found us and look forward to reading more about your projects and plans. I hope one of our helpful community members might be able to assist with your cladding question. Feel free to post whenever you need a hand or have something to share. It might be helpful if you could also post a few photos of your project.
Can you tell me if, or what, precautions you are taking about dust from the fibro board? That's if it's the old fibro, of course. I wanted to clad our 1950s fibro house using fence paling but I was advised against nailing, or screwing, into the fibro because of the dust it would create if the fibro cracks. How are you attaching the boards, I would be really interested to know? I was thinking about liquid-nailing battons on the house and attaching the boards to the battons, but I think it might not be strong enough... somewhere there's going to have to be screws or nails used...
Would love to hear, or see some photos, about how you are fixing yours up...
Great post @TayaRoberts, many thanks for the reminder about the dangers of asbestos.
Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials, contact your local council’s Environmental Health Officer or click on the links contained on the Health and Safety section of the Bunnings website.
Hi Taya, just thought I would let you know that if you wanted to share your "few handy tricks" you would have at least one avid and grateful reader, namely, ME.
I am really knocked out with your sense of style, I wish I had an ounce of that - is your talent trained or natural?
It sounds like a similar project that was done on our home.
Asbestos sheet cladding external and then the same situation of not removing it.
In the end Colourbond was used as a very quick way to finish off and looks great.
Here is a picture.
All the best with your project.
Regards Rob 👍
Thanks for your message...yes, the colourbond looks great! Can I just ask you how you attached it if you left the original asbestos in place? I've been trying to think of a way to do this without drilling or nailing. Gluing seems to be an obvious way but the old fibro on our house is very powdery and I fear sticking up pailing with liquid nails will not last. I would like to use tin but then I have the same problem of avoiding disturbing the fibro with nails or screws. I would be really interested to hear how you overcame this problem...
Hi @Hansi - I see you’re still trying to solve your problem. So, I’m assuming that your fibro is possible asbestos, and that’s the reason for avoiding sanding, nailing etc (and quite correctly). I understand your concern about using something like liquid nails, due to the condition of the fibro surface. I wonder whether there is a suitable sealer that could be painted over the surface - something like a sealer binder, which would stabilise the surface and give you a better surface to try a glue on. You might want to research potential adhesives and look beyond liquid nail type glues, towards some of the flexible polyurethane sealants or even silicon (which is an excellent glue). Anyway, I thought I’d just offer a different direction in the hope it might be useful for you, cheers Deb