Share
Hi all,
Just need a bit of advice on a reno we have found a bit challenging. We had two large bay windows that we removed with a view to replacing with 2 sets of old but fully renovated french doors. These doors will lead from inside the house to the undercover deck, so we want to install screens as well. Both spaces are basically, but not quite, the same in size. The house is besser block construction, no gyprock or lining on inner walls at all. After hours and hours of sanding, oiling then varnishing (intergrain) there is no way I am painting the french doors, so it's unlikely that I can get the frame to match, no matter what material I use.
Technical stuff : there is a rebate that seems to have been built into the top and sides of each opening.
- Outside, the distance from the top brick to the bottom brick is approx 2220m
- Inside the distance from the top brick to the bottom brick is approx 2200m.
- There is a similar measurement varition from side to side (inside measurement being slightly less than the outside one).
- Just to do my head in, the top rebate is approx. 105mm in from the outside brick, where the side rebates are only approx 90mm in from the same outside edge. ie. the rebates are not aligned all the way around the opening.
- One set of french doors is 2025mm high (the other set 2015mm) so we will need to construct some kind of transom or other solution to cover the distance remaining in the opening above the doors.
- The brick width (from out to in) is 190mm.
- The french doors together (closed) are around 1430mm wide.
We've decided that doors will sit at one side, with a single lite/louvres in the remaining space. Way simpler than making them centred and better screen installation options. We have access to some serious woodworking machinery - so, a great help.
So my plan is to make the outter frames with:
- 240 x 45mm hardwood for sills (allowing for slight overhang over deck)
- 140 x 35 hardwood for heads (rebated to fit with rebate in brick)
- 140 x 35 hardwood for uprights (rebated to fit with rebate in brick)
- 140 x 35 hardwood for middle door jamb
The plan attached below it a bit dodgy because it is photographed from my PC screen, but gives a sense of what I am thinking will work. Thinking 'frame within a frame' for the single lite or louvres.
The bits I'm struggling with:
- the cartridges for retractable fly screens can range from 50mm to 70mm depending on what we go with - and we have no clear decision on this so it will be retrofit. Thinking that we need to add a second upright (actual door jamb?) to the wall side that is wide enough to give us a distance of 70mm - with the smaller receiver cartrige fitting neatly on the middle door jamb at 35mm
- whether I need to use hardwood for the other framing we need (door jamb wall-side, single lite/louvre frame, transom etc). I'm thinking we will not paint, but use a dark stain for the framing to contrast the french doors, although using different timbers will likely mean different stain results.
- Do we have to make up the frames first then carry them in and fit them? Everything I read says this is the only way to ensure they are square. Worried we'll never lift it and we really want frames to be tight against the brick. This is how all of our other doors and windows have been installed but I have no idea how they acheived square doing it that way (photos included of other door).
- Single sill piece (with frame uprights mortissed in) or use two separate bits of timber (one as door sill, one as frame for single lite/louvre.
- How to fix the frame to the brick - all the You-tubes on door frame installation that I've found are either inside doors or outside doors of timber-framed house!
- What is the best timber for external frames - does not get direct weather (dry)
So sorry for the lengthy detail and thanks in advance for any thoughts or advice from those who have done this or know more than me! Definitely had moments thinking this one is all a bit beyond us but unfortunately can't afford to get the professionals in. My husband (a muso who doesn't share my reno passions) is getting sick of the groovey plastic temp solution, although I think it's amazing what you can do with old floor boards, plastic painting sheets and painters tape 
Cheers,
Michelle
Hi TeeBob,
I must say it has taken me a ridiculous amount of time to do this job and I've been terribly slack when it comes to updating this site. I appreciate the question and the tag from Jacob, ia good reminder!
The doors were in for a while before we could get the screens in, and we still have some trim to install as well as the latches to secure the french doors when open. I cut, rebated and installed the timber frame and doors myself (with some blokey help here and there), but we got a local screen mob to install the security screens. The french doors were not the same height as the opening, and I opted to install the side lites to the full extent of the opening rather than reduce the light. I'm still going to do something decorative to hide the frame above the doors, just not sure what yet. One mistake made was putting stick on foam door seals - they are awful, and now almost impossible to get them off. We'll be replacing those with better quality door seal strips.
All in all, really happy with how they turned out. (Note - before committing to purchase old french doors check how they will connect - this pair had to be hung with the beading on the outside for them to work with the screen and I would have preferred them the other way round).
Good Evening @Bells67
They have turned out nicely! 
I was nodding as you were decibing the issue with the screen doors Plus the way they open. I ran into the way doors opening when I deciding How I wanted a screen door to fit against my garage door and which way it should open
Nice work and now you can have a cool breeze with no bugs!
Dave
