How to build wooden stud frame on garage wall to support cupboards?

[gkmsyd]

I would like to build a timber stud frame against my garage wall so that I can conceal some pipes(using plywood) and later fix cupboards and floating shelves to it. Could you please advise me on the following:

1. Timber selection – What type and size of structural timber would you recommend for this project? I would prefer to use untreated timber since the frame will be inside the garage.

2. Fixings – What type of screws or bolts should I use to securely attach the timber frame directly to the brick wall?

3. Frame-to-wall spacing – My plan is to attach the frame flush to the wall without leaving a gap. Are there any disadvantages to this approach? Should I allow a small gap between the stud frame and the brickwork for ventilation or to prevent moisture issues?

4. Ventilation around electrical equipment – How much clearance should I leave around these components to allow for safe airflow and heat dissipation?

Attached are:

• A photo of my garage wall.

• Some reference images of the type of stud frame I’d like to build.

My Garage

Sample 1

Sample 2

[JacobZ]

Hi @gkmsyd,

Thank you for your question about building a timber stud wall in your garage.

The first thing you should be doing is confirming whether what you are proposing is even possible with the electrical appliances in place. Each item would have ventilation requirements that are specific to it. I'd be searching for the specific model number of each of these electrical items and their ventilation/setback from combustible materials. If you can't find this information, I would contact an electrician for their recommendations.

Allow me to tag @R4addZ, @CSParnell and @MikeTNZ, who have all worked within the electrical space. They might be able to offer further direction in regards to setbacks from electrical fixtures.

In saying this, you don't appear to have a lot of room around these electrical fixtures to work with, so I would be very cautious.

It is possible to use untreated framing, although you would be exposed to damage from things like termites and borers. Typically, you would use H2-treated framing for indoor applications like this. They are treated against insects like termites and borers. This 70 x 35mm Framing MGP10 H2 Blue Pine would be a good option. If you did use untreated timber, you would need to be aware that you are at increased risk from termites and boring insects.

It's typically better to have a slight gap between the timber and the brick to allow for ventilation; however, there is no hard requirement for this. You can create a slight ventilation gap by simply sticking some window packers to the back of the frame when standing it in place. 

I have built a similar wall and simply lined the back side of the timber with plascourse to prevent direct contact between the timber and the brick, as if this is not a double brick wall with a cavity, there is the potential for condensation to form on the back of the timber. The plascourse creates a barrier to prevent this condensation from forming on the timber. 

To attach timber to the brick, you would typically use fixings such as these Ramset 10 x 75mm Galvanised DynaBolt Hex Nut Bolt. 

So, to summarise, start by investigating the ventilation requirements around the electrical systems as they are the most important variable. If you can confirm there is suitable space to build the frame, then preferably use H2 treated timber with a slight separation from the wall. The frame can then be attached to the wall with Dynabolts.

Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

[R4addZ · Accepted solution]

Hi @gkmsyd 

Let's look at each of the 4 sections of wall in turn. First the section nearest the door, All the electrics for the house and what seems to be a solar system and electric vehicle charger. If I'm right then the solar and EV charger both produce and need to dissipate heat. Whats more, they need to be accessable so you can't put shelving or cupboards over them and the height is restricted by the garage door. Moving right to the next section. Whilst you may be able to board round this section, there are legal requirements for accessability to telecommunications equipment so you can't board over the box there, you could put cupboards/shelves below but not much above due once again to the garage door. Third section, a box full of lithium -Ion batteries which generate heat when charging and if they get too hot can explode/burst into flames. I for one would not be restricting airflow around this area and certainly wouldn't be adding imflammable materials to it's vicinity. Fourth section you seem clear to do as you wish.

The question though is why would you want to put a stud wall in? it's easy enough to fit shelves notched out to accommodate the conduits and you don't waste space trying to cover up something that doesn't need covering up.

[gkmsyd]

That’s great advice — thank you! I’ll refer to the documentation about space requirements and clearances before planning further. I just wanted to cover it all up so it looks nice and tidy, now that I understand it may not be possible to cover up 100%, will try to install small ready made shelves available where possible.

[gkmsyd]

Thanks Jacob