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I am in Elizabeth, SA. I have a 3 year old, 6m x 9m Colorbond (steel frame) shed with sliding doors, which gets so hot it's impossible to work in for more than a few minutes. Last year vents front and back were put in, which help a little but not enough. I had thought of installing whirlybirds, but unfortunately there is a Eucalypt hanging over part of the roof which sheds masses of bits which would not only quickly stuff up the whirlybirds but the bits would be blown into the shed - this was already happening along the roof ridge so closed cell infoam has been put in which has been excellent. Very windy where I am.
I would like to insulate the shed and start with the doors, but don't know which option would be best. I've seen
and then there are batts, but that seems like a huge job and may be unnecessary, I hope? I would also need tape and/or sealant which would tolerate the heat.
I don't want complete cool, necessarily, but enough of a lower temp so that I can work in it without running outside to recover! I've watched some videos, but none of them seem really relevant to what I need.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks very much
SuJay
Hi @SuJay
You might like to start by having a read through some of the previous discussions on this topic. Our members have contributed a remarkable number of solutions and plenty of information to help you decide on the best way forward.
If your goal is to bring the shed closer to ambient outdoor temperature, ventilation is actually the most important part of the puzzle. Insulation helps slow the transfer of heat, but without somewhere for the heat to escape, it will still build up inside a metal shed. Since a whirlybird is not workable with the eucalypt overhead, wall-mounted passive vents are the next best option. Adding a pair of high-mounted vents on opposite walls will let hot air move out continually rather than being trapped under the roof.
Sheds are not constructed to the same standard as a home, so achieving a genuinely cool interior is very difficult. The Colorbond sheets sit in full sun and heat up all day, and that heat keeps transferring inward. You can reduce how much of it comes through, but you cannot eliminate it completely. This is where insulation boards come in. Foilboard-style rigid panels are one of the simpler options for a retrofit. You can adhere them to the walls and roof frame, then seal the joins with the appropriate high-temperature tape. That creates a reflective and thermal barrier which slows the inward heat flow. If you only install insulation without venting, the temperature inside will still creep beyond ambient because the trapped hot air has nowhere to go. Combining insulation with passive wall vents is what gives you the best chance of a workable space in summer, even if it will never be truly cool.
For the sliding doors, rigid panels again tend to be the easiest to work with. They can be cut to fit within the door frames and adhered with a suitable gutter silicone, then taped around the edges. Once you address the doors and add some form of venting through the shed, you should notice a meaningful drop in peak temperatures, enough to make short work sessions much more comfortable.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
A note to our New Zealand readers, the use of foil insulation products is prohibited.
Thank you very much for all this information! I've bookmarked the discussions.
The vents have made a difference but it is still super-hot because, yes, in full sun. I don’t want a completely cool interior, but as you’ve said, closer to ambient outdoor temperature. My confusion about what best to use came about because whenever I searched there seemed to be a different option, and not being experienced in any of this it was a little daunting, & I’d rather do the job just once!
The foilboards seem as though they would be the easiest to use, but does there need to be a gap between the metal of the door and the board? Some videos I’ve watched show a gap between insulation and wall/doors and others don’t, so I’m unsure of whether putting in a gap just depends on the type of insulation being used?
Thank you
SuJay
It's great to hear you've had some success already @SuJay. Air gaps help stop heat transfer. In the case of Foilboard, yes, you add small blocks of the foam sheet, or the spacers, to ensure there is a gap between the boards and the shed wall/door/roof. Foilboard requires these gaps, but you might find some other types of insulation, such as batts, that don't stipulate this gap in their installation instructions.
Mitchell
Thank you Mitchell. Sorry for the slow replies - I requested email notifications, but haven't received any for some reason, although I have with previous conversations.
Foilboards seem best, so will start with them.
Cheers,
Sujay!
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