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Hello @Jithesh
That sounds like a very well thought out plan and the Carinya 310 x 85mm Black Heavy Duty Floating Shelf Bracket you've chosen has an excellent weight rating. However, it is very important that the brackets be anchored onto the timber stud in the wall. Otherwise, all that weight rating will be useless. However, as an option if the base of the bracket can't be fully secured to the stud, I propose installing a horizontal timber support such as 90x35 and anchoring that to the wall stud and the bracket onto the horizontal timber support. The timber support, brackets and the cleats should be enough to support the desk.
Here are some handy links you might find useful:
- Floating study desk with cable tray by @butters
- Floating timber desk with concealed brackets by @ProjectPete
- Floating office shelf by @ProjectPete
- Top 10 most popular desk projects
Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1, @Nailbag and @Noyade for their recommendations.
If you have any other questions please let us know.
Eric
Good Morning @Jithesh
I like your plans and was concerned about the span until @EricL mentioned the rear rail support. That really would help out with any springyness and dipping. (Tho I wouldnt styand on it to get to something higher 
)
As a side note as it comes up all the time at work when Ive been installing offices/changing them around and people wanting narrower desks to maximise space there is a ratio rule that works. Desks should be min 600mm wide, preferably wider (just measured my desk and its around 700mm)
This is to keep a viewing distance from a screen to your eyes, to keep the body/keyboard/eyes/head height all within range.
Under the desk is the next reason why. when you sit down at the desk you legs and knees are stretched or bent but are comfortable at 700mm, dropping your width down to 550mm or 500mm you may run into that "uncomforatble feeling. How about before you install the desk, make a mock up of the distance using a cardboard box under a table at 550mm and on top of the table mark out a 550mm depth with painters tape and tehn set it up.
Can you allow a poking out by 100mm from the nook?
Dave
Thank you @EricL and @Dave-1 .
I love the idea of the horizontal timber support and the mock desk setup. I'll add the timber support at the back too and then will test out the desk with a mock setup. Adding the back support reduces the cantilevered portion too, so that's another plus.
I don't want to allow the desk to pop out as this is in the living room. This desk will be for my son for his study, and he won't be using it for longer hours.
What screws would you recommend to secure the cleats and the brackets to stud?
Also, I have an idea to add the easycraft vj panels on the wall first and then put the desk and shelves on top of it. Haven't settled on that decision yet though
Thanks
Hi @Jithesh
When you say it’s a nook I’m assuming its a U-shaped space?
If that’s the case, for that span, shallow depth and thickness of bench top you should be able to get away with supporting battens to all 3 sides without a need for stayed brackets.
And if considering VJ panelling then note stud dead centres on the floor first then install the panels then the desk for easy of assembly and neatness of finish.
Nailbag
Hi @Nailbag , that's interesting. I was worried about the weight of the desk panel + computer & other items causing the desk to sag without enough support throughout the width. So you reckon that's not the case? And yes, it is on a u-shaped space as shown in the picture.
