How to build a wall mount table?

[Kathy88]

Hello, 

I'm planning on making a wall mounted dining table. I will buy a slab ~ 160cm x 60cm x 4cm. I want to mount it on the wall using a foldable wall mount bracket. Was wondering what type of bracket would I need and if there's actually a bracket that will hold the weight of a slab plus whatever I put on the table?

I added a photo or a similar thing I want to make.

 

[EricL]

Hello @Kathy88 

Thank you for posting that link. I can now see what you are trying to emulate. Folding the table over the uncut piece is technically much more practical as the weight of the cut piece sits on top of the table and does not unbalance the table. I know you prefer the fold down piece but from a safety aspect it would be better to have it balanced.

As the top folds over there will be no need to use a locking mechanism as the legs fold out to catch the table folding out. The hinge that they used is called a 3D Adjustable Universal Concealed Hinge 45225. The number of hinges to use depends on the weight of the benchtop it will be holding. Please note that the hinges have a thickness limitation of 38mm minimum to a maximum of 42mm. Please note that the hinges will need to be ordered at the special orders desk.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[Kathy88]

I want to make something similar to what Mitchell created in the comment above. Would I need that extra leg even if the length is cut to 130 or 150?  I want to keep the style of the table and have the legs a bit inward.

I'm not sure what you mean about "shortened bench" to make it safer. Can you explain a bit more? 

I will be placing it under the cabinet (same as first pic comment). Thought if I make it 50 or 60cm, 10 will go under the cabinet and with the length being less, he won't bang his head on the corner.

[EricL]

Hi @Kathy88 

My apologies for the confusion, I was referring to the width of the table. Having had a second look at the table size you were referring to, cutting it in half might work, but I would still advise anchoring the footing to the floor. I've placed a quick sketch of your table below with some basic measurements. You can imagine the weight of the folded section is exerting on the entire structure. On closer inspection I don't think it would be practical to make the cut section smaller. 

However, I would still recommend anchoring the table to the floor to prevent it from toppling over just in case the children run into it. I also suggest using Perma Child Safety Clear Adhesive Corner Protectors - 20 Pack.

Eric

[Kathy88]

Sorry for the late reply, got a bit busy. 

I sized everything again. The original table top is 240cm long, 90 to 100cm wide and 3.5cm thick. The leg is 70cm wide. Not sure what the wood is (maybe Acacia).

I want the table itself to be 160cm long, 60cm wide and the drop to be 30 to 40cm wide (mostly 30, some bits of the live edge are 40). 

In that case, would I be able to get away with anchoring to the ground and using only something like the galvanised drop bolt you suggested before?

Because the legs are 70, I can cut them to 60 to support the whole table top and use the anchor to hold the 30 to 40cm drop up . Would this work or would you still suggest the cut the legs into 50 and 20 and use the 20 to support the top? 

[EricL]

Hello @Kathy88 

Thank you for sharing those measurements. I believe the balance is just right as the folded section is not so heavy and you still have a bit of leg to support the folded section. The drop bolt was actually meant for the table to prevent the folded section from folding in. To anchor the table, I suggest using heavy duty angle brackets to hold the table in place. However, once, you've cut the table, I suggest doing a test to see if the table is still stable even if 1/3 has been cut down and is hanging off its edge.

If the table is easy to topple over, then I suggest installing angle brackets to hold the table in place. 

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric