How to install VJ panels on ceiling?

[Malak]

Hi

I am going to attempt to install a VJ panel on a ceiling (attached to the stud) and I have a couple of questions.

I have read the instructions on the Easycraft website and it says to take off 10mm off the length of the board but at the same time it seems to indicate that there is a 10mm cap all around the ceiling (all 4 sides). I just wanted to confirm that it is correct that I would take 20mm off in total off each side (so 10mm gap for each side)?

Where I am installing it has had some water damage in the past. Would the standard VJ suffice or should I get the one for wet areas?

I also wondering if I took my measurements with me is Bunnings able to cut it to size (take off from both the length and width)? If not what tool/s would I be looking at it be able to cut it to size - I am assuming a hand saw would be too painful?

Thank you!

[MitchellMc]

Hi @Malak,

The Easycraft guide for ceiling installation suggests that you need to have a 10mm gap around the perimeter of the ceiling. So if you are installing a single board that will meet the perimeter walls, you'd take your ceilings measurements, minus 20mm from both the width and length, which would then be your cut dimensions. For instance, say the ceiling is 1100 x 800mm. You'd need the 1200 x 900mm sheet cut down to 1080 x 780mm. That way, you can fix it in the middle of the ceiling with a 10mm gap around its perimeter.

If there is any current moisture or chance of it in the future, you should use the wet-area products. 

You'll likely be able to have the board cut down in the store, so take those measurements with you. It's best to stop in on a weekend evening when it is less busy. A handsaw and straight edge would be doable, especially if you install an architrave to finish the ceiling and cover the cut line. Alternatively, a circular saw would be suitable. If that seems a bit overwhelming, you could use a jigsaw that comes with a guide fence.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

[Malak]

Thank you

The area that I am doing the VJ panel on is a wardrobe of approximately 1320 x 520 so it is a tight spot. I know with plasterboard is was tight and a pain trying to get it in (different wardrobe but same dimensions as this one). Would it be better to split the boards into 2 and join to them together to make it easier to get them in? The height is around 2080.

I plan to use to wet area interior for the ceiling (a very small amount of water damage in the past) and the general purpose for the walls (the walls have never had any water damage).

In regards to securing the walls Easycraft have suggest the following nails:

Nail Gun – Paslode ND Brads 14ga x 45mm (Walls)
Nail Gun – Paslode Duo-Fast C2.5 x 45 Ring Shark (Ceilings)

I have Ozito PCX nail & staple gun which takes the C1 brad nails, am I able to use C1 brad nails to secure the VJ? If not are there any other nails that the nail gun will take to be able to secure the VJ to both the walls and ceiling?  If not what type of nail gun would you recommend for a project like this? 

Sorry for all the questions. I am only new at this DIY stuff.

Thank you

[MitchellMc]

Hi @Malak,

You could split the board to make installation easier. It might be best to split it between two grooves and apply some PVA glue on the edge when fitting into place. 

Those Ring Shark nails come in a coil and require a Coil Nail Gun. I'm not sure if you'd be looking to invest in one of those for this project alone. Unfortunately, we only hire the standard framing gun that doesn't shoot these specific nails. I believe EasyCraft suggests using the Ring Shark nails as they provide additional grip over a standard framing nail.

Given it's such a small sheet, I'd be comfortable with you using the C1 50mm brads. Your Ozito has a max capacity of 32mm brads, so you might like to hire the Trim Bradder. The only alternative would be to differ from the manufacturer's instructions and use significantly more 32mm brads than the Ring Sharks and possibly apply some construction adhesive at regular intervals around the perimeter of the sheet and across the middle. Make sure not to apply large dollops of the adhesive as its thickness will deform the appearance of the sheets, and you'll end up with lumps. 

Another option that would be quite secure is screwing the roof sheet to the roof timbers. You'll need to countersink the screws, so their heads are slightly beneath the sheet's surface. This will allow you to use filler over them.

Let me mention some of our knowledgeable members, @ProjectPete, @craftyhopper and @EleventhCoastal, to see if they have any fixing recommendations.

Please never apologise for asking questions, as we're here to help.

Mitchell