Upgraded door knobs to modern lever sets

[Bluetooth]

When we moved in several years ago we thought we would change the door knobs, but it was one of those things that we just got used to! Not only are the handles a tarnished golden colour, but they are all at a strangely high level (see second picture). I decided to put new modern lever sets at standard Australian handle height (1050mm).

I found these 'Carla' style privacy handles at my local Bunnings, and watched a few how to videos and got stuck in. I bought a Ryobi door handle cutting jig tool, which is great for ensuring that I cut in the right spot. Also picked up a tool that helps to notch and chisel out the strikeplate quite easily. Since I'm doing 7 of these, I could justify the investment in a couple of specialty tools. One small annoyance is that the hole cutting tool gets jammed together with the bit, and its very hard to get it off to switch hole saw sizes. It seems like a real design flaw.

I'm really happy with the levers - they are very sturdy feeling, and they look great. Next I'll need to fil in the holes left by the old Lane 1000 mortice locks. I'm planning on cutting some wood to fit in the cavity, and then using regular mud to smooth everything out. Then sand, and fresh paint. 

[EricL]

Hello @Bluetooth

Thank you very much for sharing your upgraded door knobs project. Investing in specialist tools makes the job go easier, especially if you are doing a lot of it. The Gainsborough G4 Series Bright Chrome Carla Privacy Leverset looks very nice on your door. It provides you with a modern door handle mechanism but does not make it look out of place. 

Just a friendly reminder that when putting large timber fillers into timber gaps, please make sure to secure them not only with glue but screws as well. This will prevent the piece you've placed in the gap from moving when the door is being used.

Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing the door patched and ready for use.

Eric

[Lacoste]

Looks good I want to do this too, my door handles are also placed high. What do you use to fill in the hole? would it be a piece of hard timber cut to fit inside? or wood filling putty?

[EricL]

Hello @Lacoste

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. Thank you for joining the discussion.

Let me tag @Bluetooth to make them aware of your kind words and question. I suggest using a timber insert on anything larger than a 10cm hole. Timber inserts can be screwed and glued to the space they are trying to fill. This in turn saves you from having to use too much filler on the hole of the door. Using timber reinforces the hole in the timber door and can be anchored to the door itself.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[Bluetooth]

Thanks @Lacoste . I have not filled the hole yet, but I'm planning to use some pine that I'll cut to fit the approximate size, and the screw it in as @EricL suggested, then fill with drywall mud, or cornice cement.

I suggest picking up a door latch tool, and a Wood & Metal Door Lock Kit.  They have made the job a lot easier.

[Noyade]

Hi @Bluetooth 

Lovely looking house, doors and handles.

"but they are all at a strangely high level"

Yes indeed, but not uncommon? I saw an orthopaedic surgeon a few years ago whose consulting rooms had similar doors and handle heights in an old federation house.

I had a look at some old carpentry textbooks from the 1940's and there are very detailed chapters on door construction and types but no author seems to want to discuss handle height. I even wondered if it was a method of keeping small children outta rooms and preventing them from seeing what they shouldn't see. But all those old internal door handles seen above appear to be lockable? Yours look to be "A" without the moulding.

"One small annoyance is that the hole cutting tool gets jammed together with the bit, and its very hard to get it off to switch hole saw sizes. It seems like a real design flaw."

I think you can buy a quick-release system for the hole saws. I have only recently purchased a Sutton hole saw set and experienced the same problem - I put a little grease between the metal surfaces, which helped a little.

[Noyade]

Unfortunately all my doors are of the cheap hollow type with two sheets of thin Masonite separating the space. The previous owner had installed cheap and nasty round handles that you got from Clints Warehouse so I thought I would update them with a Lane(?) product from Bunnings a few years back - see below.

But to my horror the old Clints variety had required a 55 mm hole. The outer diameter of the Lane's handle body was slightly less than 60 mm so positioning was impossible without slipping, revealing the inner poor space and tightening the screws distorted the Masonite.

So I filled the space with wood - and this time I was absolutely determined not to follow the enclosed instructions and re-bore a 50 mm hole. Instead with a lotta measuring and fiddling I managed to create four 'exact' holes for the connection bar, attachment screws and the locking pin. But it was worth it.

[Noyade]

And two questions.

Are those large O-rings, that hold the cover in place - replaceable - should they perish over time?

The locking pin had a very fine M3 thread. With regular opening and closing of the doors they tend to loosen and I have found one on the floor. I thought Locktite - but that makes it permanent. All I've been doing is hand tight - and then a further half turn with a pair of pliers.

A better solution?

[EricL]

Hi @Noyade

Excellent door handle repair and replacement. It can be challenging sometimes trying to retrofit new hardware into existing cuts in the door. 

Eric

[Bluetooth]

Update: 1

 

I cut the pine and used glue and screws to fasten in inside. Then gyprock to fill the gaps. Next I'll send and see if it needs another coat before painting.