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Advice for vanish/protective finish for DIY pinball and also which tool required?

Junior Contributor

Advice for vanish/protective finish for DIY pinball and also which tool required?

Hi everyone I have 2 questions. Any help would be appreciated. 


Q1: I need some sort of protective layer that will have as little friction as possible for the ball bearings to roll on. Ive heard of spray on varnish which I'd like to opt for but have no idea what sort of matt or satin or product to opt for. Main concern is that the final surface needs to be smooth and not grippy as much as possible. Looking to only have a light tint to the wood, nothing to dark. 


Q2: Tool?? I've seen tools that could cut, drill and sand hand held and easy to manuver but not sure what they are.? As have alot of fiddly angles, small adjustments sanding and cuts to make this would be handy. For this project I need several of 4 different cut shape types out of 3mm Mdf for doors and windows at final stages. (see photos) I bought a jigsaw and know I could use that and a holesaw but is there a tool that could make this easier for me than that as I'm pretty confident with a steady hand for something hand held and easier to manuver that I can use for a broad range of tasks.




Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Re: Advise for vanish/protective finish and also which tool required?

Hi @MarcL,


It sounds like you might be after something similar to Feast Watson 1m² Glass Finish as it is high gloss and extremely hard-wearing. Its high gloss finish will ensure there will be as little friction as possible; you can read more about it here. However, it does mention it is not suitable for vertical surfaces, were you planning on painting the pieces as well? Whatever product you go for, I would recommend a gloss instead of a matt finish.


You might be thinking of a Dremel as they can do fine cutting, sanding and drilling. They have a fantastic array of attachments that you can use for a multitude of different applications. However, I'd suggest a jigsaw with a thin blade for tight curves and the intricate work required for making those cut-outs. A manual coping saw would be slightly more controllable if you have issues with the jigsaw.


I'll be looking forward to following along with your project. Please let me know if you need further assistance or had questions. 




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