We are looking to build our own barn doors (2400H X 1200W) for 2 large openings in our living area. The design below is what we want to achieve.
We had originally planned on using individual pine planks attached to a thick piece of MDF, but to save time + money, we are now thinking of sandwiching together a piece of 9mm MDF Board with 2 pieces of 9mm 2 x 2400 x 1200 x 9mm V Grooved Project Panels (links to products at end of post). We would glue and then nail the V grooved panels to both sides of the MDF so we get the desired look on both sides of the door.
We would then screw in a horizontal 1200W X 235mm x 19mm Pine panel at the top and bottom of the door to add further stability and to attach the tracking/rail system to. This would bring the depth of the door to 46mm - which seems to be around the standard depth of a normal door.
My concern is whether the door will be too ‘flimsy’ as it will essentially be made out of 3 large 9mm boards. I will also be white washing and then sealing the door to help keep moisture out (even though it isn’t in a wet area).
What do you think? Do you think the door will hold up fine as described? Or will we need to attach another pine plank across the door to provide extra support? Something like this:
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @Bubbles8712. It's wonderful that you've joined us, and many thanks for your questions about barn door construction.
I don't believe the door will be too flimsy. The MDF core will be exposed to view on the side, so you might like to add some thin solid pine cover strips on the door's edge to hide this.
Your finished thickness of 46mm is above the maximum thickness for some roller systems. It might just squeeze in, though. The Lockwood 2m Outland Barn Door Track Hardware Kit, and Rolltrak Barn Door Track Side Fix Set Matt Black Smooth Finish 2000 x 40 x 6 both have a maximum door thickness of 45mm. This could likely be remedied by rebating the hanging brackets slightly into the door's thickness.
It sounds like a great project, and we can't wait to follow along. Please keep us updated and reach out if you have further questions.
I like your suggestion of rebating the brackets - we will see how it fits first and if we need to shave off a mm or so, so be it!
Do you know if we were to mount the rail directly on the wall (assuming our studs line up with the brackets pre drilled holes), will the hanging door clear a 20mm skirting board? And if we mount it on a 20mm timber board, will it then sit 20mm off the skirting and hang quite wide? Unsure if that makes sense!
Look forward to hearing from the other members and sharing some pics as we get it started!
That does make sense @Bubbles8712 and, from the product feedback, it appears the door hangs very close to the wall. They mention that it will hit a skirting. I would hazard a guess that the 45mm max door thickness would have it just about touching the wall. The door won't clear a 20mm architrave. If you pack the rail out 20mm, the door will sit 20mm out from the wall and run against the skirting.
Hi @Bubbles8712 ,
Sounds like a pretty good plan!
I'd screw and glue the pine and the MDF, that will increase strength.
Go for it and share the results!
We are FINALLY about to construct and install the barn doors. Slight change of plans re materials and design - we are now using 140mm X 12mm tongue and groove panels that will be nailed to a timber frame (30mm pine) - image below.
We will be installing the rail kit to a 3m header board which will be screwed/bolted into the studs. We are unsure though on what size screws to use? Would the M10 x 100mm be overkill for a 40-50kg door?
more photos of progress to Come!
Door looks great!
Personally - I think it's good you moved away from the original MDF plan. It continues to amaze me how easily MDF is damaged by moisture and water spills. I think floating floors are a good example.
Too late in the proceedings now, but I did try a few years back making that "slotted" wood effect buy routing small "Vs" in a solid piece of (pine?) board 20 mm thick. I "abused" it with hammer marks and fake nail holes, I dunno, for that old-time cottage table look. Painted it with Porters Chalk and polyurethane finish. My wife hated it - now it's a dirty, abused and neglected table.
Maybe make it a sliding door?
Thank you so much for sharing your photo updates. In regards to your question, I think the Zenith M10 x 100mm Hot Dipped Galvanised Hex Head Coach Screw would be strong enough to hold the rail kit. Better to over-engineer it rather than see the rail kit droop. My number one tip for your assembly is to do a test installation of the rail kit. This is to make sure that the rail holes line up with the studs in your wall. You can then test one of the hangers to make sure everything will be clear and the door will not catch the skirting or door frame.
Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing your barn door installed.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Project is coming along quite smoothly.
After cutting the timber to size, I drilled pilot holes on each of the horizontal pieces using a Kreg pocket hole jig.
I then glued and screwed the frame together with Kreg 38mm pocket hole screws. I then left this overnight with some weight on top.
We then cut one edge of the 2400 x 140mm tongue and groove pine with a circular saw and began glueing and nail gunning the slats to the frame.
We then ran the circular saw along all edges to make all ends flush.
We then flipped it upright, primed and painted. Next step is to finish the second coat and install rail system.
Wow @Bubbles8712! Those look amazing. I can't wait to see them hung and in place.
Many thanks for keeping us updated.