Grid Connect tips, tricks and help

[CSParnell]

Hi all,

I thought it may he good to have a feed where we could share any tips and tricks to do with any of the Grid Connect Range being Arlec, Deta, Verve, Orion.

I am learning from trial and error and really just accident so sharing with others and sharing back we may be able to create some good learning information for us all.

Please post below starting with what the trick is as the title then how to do so as the body of information.

Carl 

[filthy]

I'm getting some conflicting info.from different sources.

Let's say I have the smart wall switch in the kitchen.

My shed has a smart light bulb.

Both are connected via the app.

shouldn't I be able to automate via app so that the wall switch can turn on the shed light?

and yes I am aware of the need for neutral wire. I am getting a new induction hotplate so I have a sparky coming anyway. 

[JacobZ]

Hi @filthy,

Apologies, I had thought you were asking if the switch could control a standard light bulb in another location; in that case, no, it could not.

If you were using smart bulbs and smart devices, the answer would be yes as long as they are within range of your Wi-Fi.

After installation, you would pair the switch with your chosen app. Once connected, any compatible devices you've already added to the app can be linked to the switch’s buttons through automation settings.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

[filthy]

thanks. went out and bought the switch today

[GreenHouse]

Neutral wire behind switch plates for smart light switches.  It may depend on how old your house is.

It's been some time since I looked at AS3000 BUT I think there was a change some time ago where no permanent active wires are allowed in ceiling spaces (for safety reasons). The upshot of this is that newer houses may be wired with active, neutral and earth conductors run to each switch plate and only switched active, neutral and earth conductors are run up the wall, in the ceiling to lights and fans etc. (Makes the ceiling space much safer. One of the first electricians I worked with was electrocuted in the ceiling space when he contacted permanent active wires in the ceiling space - He left a wife and two young girls behind - very sad - but I digress . . .)

My house and all the houses around me, which were built some 12 or 13 years ago, have active, neutral and earth conductors run to each switch plate which is VERY handy.  It may pay to check your installation.

[CSParnell]

Afternoon all,

Just wanted to give you all the heads up I had a few different devices like some Bluetooth Hubs and some GU10 globes drop off my app and or cease to work yesterday. I had to repair them and or remove them and repair them. Tuya did send through some developer update emails in the last 5 days this may have had something to do with it but I had not had a chance to read them yet. I'm not sure if it is app wide across Grid Connect - Smart Life - Tuya App but it was certainly on Smart Life.

All came back online after repairing and adding to any automations again.

[Jaronik]

Not sure if this is what you're after, but I have a number of Grid Connect devices that I have used Cloudcutter on, and then reflashes with ESPHome - this allows full control of functionality, and integrates perfectly into Home Assistant. The V3 devices (which version is listed on the box) are more difficult to reprogram, I don't believe they work with Cloudcutter - I had to open them and manually connect with a USB-UART device.

[JacobZ]

Hi @Jaronik,

A warm welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, it is wonderful to have you with us.

Thank you for sharing your experience with your Grid Connect devices and different smart home systems.

I'm not 100% certain which comment your response is in relation to, so if you could tag the user by adding an @ followed by their username, we can ensure they are notified of your helpful advice.

Jacob

[R4addZ]

Hi @GreenHouse 

Oh but I wish this were the case. My friend built last year here in WA and only active and switched active run to all switches. So either they are breaching AS3000 in WA or that change was never implemented. The rules in WA now are that you don't enter a roof space unless all power is isolated.

[GreenHouse]

Hi @R4addZ 

Well 🤔; I could be wrong about AS3000 (I'm 15years out of the loop now), but it is interesting that my house, and all our surrounding houses, have ANE looped from switch plate to switch plate and only Neutral, Earth and Switch-wires are run into the ceiling space.  It's made it soooo easy for me! 😀

Apart from any safety requirement, it would make a lot of sense these days to include a neutral at every switch plate to power future smart devices and pilot lights etc.  It's all about saving a $.  However, in the scheme of things, how much more would it cost in a new home to include a neutral? - Especially compared with the cost of adding one after ! ! ! 😠

[R4addZ]

Hi @GreenHouse 

Lucky you, I built about 6 years ago and I only have active and switched active at all switch points. There is a relatively cheap and not so messy way to add an extra conductor to a switch plate but you have to be willing to patch smaller holes on both sides of the wall, I refer to it as stitching and it is described here.....

https://www.australiancommsforum.com/post/how-to-minimise-chasing-of-the-wall-6819157?pid=1282065109

Just a note here is that the first hole needs to also be directed to the side of the switch to ensure you don't hit the existing cables on the way up!