Share
Hi
I am looking to render my old house, I have watched vedios on bunnings website and youtube. I tried my hand on couple of the wall inside the garage and was able to get the satisfactory finish. However outside the home is a different ball game. It has windows and damp course.
My question is
1. How you render over the damp course. I have a layer of brick which protuding a bit from the main wall, I am assuming its damp course layer. This layer of brick is atleast 15mm out from the main brick wall. Should i just render above this layer? what are my choices if i wish to render whole wall above damp course and below.
2. Most of the bunnings and youtube vedios shows the corner beads for windows but corner beads available in bunnning are with just 3.5mm Nib whereas most youtubers are using 10mm and also use this as marker of thickness of render. Can i use the 3.5mm nib and still render 10mm thickness,
Hi @CastleDiy,
That seems like a very high dampcourse line. Typically, they would be a couple of courses from the ground, not eight courses high.
If it is a dampcourse line, you could extend it through the render. That way, the top and bottom rendered portions would be isolated from each other, and no moisture could be transferred up the rendered surface.
You could just render the top portion if that's a look you wouldn't mind.
10mm render is quite thick and was something we did regularly in the past. These days, with improvements in technology, a 10mm thick render coat is not required. Renders such as Dunlop 20kg Multipurpose Acrylic Render can be applied with as little as 2mm up to 10mm. So, if you were to go with a product like this, the 3.5mm nib render bead would be perfect. I wouldn't suggest you try to apply 10mm of render over a 3.5mm nib bead, as you won't end up with a very robust corner, which will be susceptible to damage.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Hi @bruzzz,
It sounds like you’re on the right track—bridging the damp-proof course (DPC) with render can definitely lead to moisture issues. Decoupling the render by cutting a clean line just below the weep holes may help, but because this involves the integrity of your building’s moisture barrier, it’s really important to get advice from a licensed builder. They'll be able to assess the issue properly and ensure any fix complies with current building codes.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
I'm having a 1950's brick house rendered and our plasterer insists the corbelled row is the DPC too - even though it's a couple of feet above ground level.
I don't see anywhere obvious below that where a DPC could be - no breaks, lines, or color variations in any of the bricks below it. I wonder if there was some trend in the old days to combine the corbell with the DPC.
Hi,
The house was built in 1951, in North Epping, Sydney.
As far as rendering below the DPC, there are two methods being discussed with the renderer:
1. Installing a Drip Bead 10mm above the DPC.
Drip beads are different to stop beads, which are the kind used at the edges of walls, and around window frames, door frames etc. when rendering.
They're designed to stop any moisture rising up, instead turning it back downwards.
There are various designs. Below is a diagram of how they sit, and a photo of the bead running along the side of a house.
2. Below-DPC rendering waterproofing additive
Mixing an additive into the render that is applied below the DPC, for protection along that band which runs along the base of the house. There are some products that waterproof, salt-proof and plasticise sand/cement renders. So the render doesn't suck up moisture or salts, and is supposedly easier to work with.
Cheers
You might also like
