How to remove paint without using paint stripper?

[ReluctantDYI]

I have a wooden top on a half wall in my kitchen that I would like to take back to bare wood and re-varnish.  I want to avoid paint stripper because I find it stains light wood with grey marks.

Can I use a planer https://www.bunnings.com.au/xu1-600w-planer_p0098553 or belt sander https://www.bunnings.com.au/xu1-810w-corded-belt-sander_p0253633 ?  Do I have any other options?

[JacobZ]

Hi @ReluctantDYI,

Thank you for your question about removing paint from a timber wall.

Did you have a photo of the wall that you could upload? This would help our members understand the issue and offer their best advice based on your specific circumstances.

Either a planer or a belt sander will work, with each having pros and cons.

A planer is far more aggressive than a belt sander because it functions by having spinning blades cut shavings from the surface of the material. It will remove the paint, but it will also remove more of the timber itself. It is also quite likely that a planer will create unevenness in the timber, which would require a fair bit of work to remove. It would make quick work of it, but it is probably not the best option of the two.

Of the two options you've mentioned, the belt sander would be the better option. The belt sander is still fairly aggressive, but being abrasive in nature, it will not remove as much material and cause as much unevenness as a planer will.  If you go with a belt sander, use an aggressive grit sandpaper such as an 80 grit sandpaper belt.

Alternatively, a random orbital sander is an option that is worth considering. It is less aggressive than a belt sander, so it will take more time, but they are far easier to control. You can still remove paint fairly easily using 80-grit sanding pads, but it will take more time than a belt sander.

Personally, I would use a random orbital sander and commit more time to the job. 

Allow me to tag @AlanM52, @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their thoughts.

Let me know what you think, and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

[Nailbag]

Hi @ReluctantDYI 

I am on similar lines to @JacobZ. Definitely goo with an ROS but start with 60G to really get the layers off. The first mm or two will be the hardest as it will bind up the paper. So, invest in "non-clogging paper" to start with. Then go 80G, 120G, 180G and finish with 240G.

The only issue with an ROS is the round base so you won't get into any corners. So, a 1/4sheet or detail sander will be required.

Nailbag

[ReluctantDYI]

Thank you for the reply @JacobZ and @Nailbag .  I've uploaded some photos of the wood top I want to re-coat.  I will be covering it with Feast Weston Liming White Varnish.

I didn't know a plane would give uneven results, I thought the purpose of planing was to give an even flat finish.  When I did the bench top I used paint stripper, a carbide scrapper and a quarter sheet sander.  It took ages with a lot of scrapping and sanding even after the paint stripper.  Even after a day of prep there are some patches where the grey staining of the paint stripper still shows through the liming white (but the result is still better than the previous finish.

If an orbital sander is the best approach I'm thinking of this model https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-pxc-18v-cordless-125mm-random-orbital-sander-pxros-125-skin-only_p... with these Full Boar mesh disks https://www.bunnings.com.au/full-boar-125mm-assorted-mesh-sanding-discs-10-pack_p0400474  Would the mesh disks be less likely to clog up?

[JacobZ]

Hi @ReluctantDYI,

Hand planers will create a flat and even surface across the width of each pass. The unevenness will come in because on a wide surface, you will have to make a number of passes across the width of the piece, and unless you are following perfectly straight lines and not overlapping at any point, the planer will be running across two surfaces of differing height, so it will sit uneven and thus cut uneven. I have seen examples of planer sleds being built on YouTube, however it is a fair bit of work constructing one yourself. 

It will still take a fair bit of work, but the Ozito Random Orbital Sander will certainly speed things up and help you keep the surface nice and flat.

Those mesh sanding sheets look like a good option, although you should grab the 125mm disks. Instead of grabbing that assorted pack, I would suggest you grab a pack of Full Boar 125mm 80G Mesh Sanding Discs and a pack of Full Boar 125mm 240G Mesh Sanding Discs. It would work out cheaper than the variety pack and you can use the 80G discs for the bulk of the removal and the 240G discs to smooth the surface before varnishing.

Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob   

[Dave-1]

Good Evening @ReluctantDYI 

A planner will remove far more then you realise (oh yeah Ive tried it when making myself a hardwood table and woooooo)

A belt sander (corderd) would work well.

An orbital mixed with a belt sander would possibly be best.

I have used paint stripper on my door and that plus a wire brush removed all the paint with no discolouration, The door was hardwood so maybe that could be a reason, Id still like the idea of paint stripping it as it will remove less timber overall. I find that a sander pad clags up with paint when I have tried sanding paint with them. I have not tried it on a varnished surface yet

One last thought, id try a random orbital sander first before buying a belt sander, the varnish dosnt appear to be thick so I am hopping it comes off easily.

Dave