Thanks very much for your comments Deb... yes, the house is fibro so it's %90 cement with %10 asbestos, which dates from 1953 so it's old and powdery and would crack very easily. Some sort of strengthening sealant would be good and possibly a more suitable glue other than liquid nails, but I'm still trying to think outside the box and come up with an alternative and ingenious method to attach the pailings, or possibly even tin... it's such a lovely house on the inside but, the outside... yuck!
Thanks again for your advice, it's much appreciated!
oh thank you so much! no formal training just love renovating, grew up with my parents renoing every house and my dad is a high end cabinet maker (so is my brother) and my uncle a builder so i have learnt a lot just from watching them and a whole lot more from trial and error I am a fashion designer (bridal gowns) so am an artistic person and was an arts student at school and would have loved to have done architecture or something along those lines also so its just a love i have
what tips and tricks where you after sorry its been a while since i logged on
That's great, learning by doing is a great way, but you also obviously have an "eye" for it.
Oh, you mentioned in your first message in this thread that you had developed some "handy tricks" regarding using fence palings for various projects.
@Bundaboyoh yes that's right
well the biggest tip i have that was learned the hard way was how much shrinkage is involved with fence pailings as they are sold as a wet product. buy the pailing plus excess you need about two months out from needing them and store them in a dry warm place spaced
out to dry out and acclimatize to your environment this will help stop gaps forming down the track
i have a few times left them outside over 6 months to pre weather to help in achieving a reclaimed look they grey off nicely over time and can be sanded back to give a multi tonal look for that reclaimed effect, another great way of doing this is to go to town with some old paint in varying colours then sand back this look s so good but a lot off work as the paint can be a real bugger to remove.. go lightly you will be surprised how much it adheres and how much sand paper and hours you will need to get it back to a rough reclaimed look
fence pailing look wicked as a cheaper alternative to the ship lap look you just space them out with a slight shadow line between each board then go back with gap filler to seal
i have used fence pailings for barn doors, outdoor lounge, house siding (in an alfresco indoor outdoor area) as an alternative to ship lap for interior cladding, to clad my outdoor kitchen (still on this project so no pics as yet) as feature wall and cabinet doors in our 'mancave' as bench tops on a display cabinet .. needless to say i love them haha with the right prep and finish they come up amazing i get asked about them all the time. sanded til smooth/filled/stained/sealed they are soo hardy and look amazing i will see if i can find the project pics i have mentioned above to show you below
we have completely gutted our entire place and started again (almost three years in the making) it was an 80's fibro house converted into two apartments top and bottom which we have returned into one house) but the light is at the end of the tunnel. the laundry and second bath are gutted and on the way back and then the kitchen and the inside is almost complete (bar the main bath but that will be the very last to be updated as its not to bad for the moment) so yes a LOT of work hahaha
so i use new treated pine boards any that get bows i straighten out with weights (we have a home gym with plenty of weights at my disposal haha)
those pics are only a drop in the ocean of the 26 rooms/outdoor areas either done or still to complete which included a bump out addition of a third lounge storage room and new laundry
I tried a small wall section of external fence palings last year, but as Taya mentioned - shrinkage was a problem.
Is that picture before or after said shrinkage? It certainly looks great to me there.
Hi there. This is my first time on Workshop & this post caught my eye. I have the same issue. Part of my house is fibro or board & the rest is cladding. I asked a builder (two, in fact) about this & the first said "clad over the top" & the second, who is admittedly devoted to building exteriors, explained, with the first builder, keen to listen, that the cladding used has a 30 year warranty. In order to ensure the warranty is met, the old fibro or board should be removed. This makes it more expensive but in the long run, should there by any issues such as leaking from a storm, the warranty is in place. I don't fully remember the name of the cladding we already have, but I think it was called Jacksons or Johnsons? Either way, I can get back to you with the name of the builder and any further advice.
Many thanks for joining in the discussion and sharing your experiences @melissa07. It's fantastic to have you as a Workshop member. We look forward to reading more about your projects and plans.
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