How to frame and line a shed?

[LisaAndStu]

I’m about to start a project to line the inside of my shed with a frame so I can have either plywood or vj board walls. 

While I’ve done quite a fair share of DIY jobs in the past, this will be quite a new and major project for me, but one that I’m ready to tackle. 

My question is how I am best to secure the frame to the shed. I’ve assumed that I need to build my timber frame inside of the existing metal shed frame so that the timber is flush against the sheet metal wall, but now wondering if I would be better off building the timber frame on the outside of the metal frame (thus reducing the size of the room by the width of the timber frames)? Either way, I’m unsure of the best way to secure the timber frame. I’ve seen some examples where they are secured by screws from the outside of the shed? 

here’s a couple of photos of the inside and current metal frame. Hopefully my question makes sense, but any advice would be greatly appreciated! 

 

 

 

[MitchellMc]

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @LisaAndStu. It's terrific to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about lining a shed.

It would likely be easiest to add the vertical timber frame over the horizontal metal frame of the shed. This allows you to fix the timber securely by screwing through it into the metal structure, which will ensure a solid hold. Additionally, by adding the timber frame on the outside, you’ll create a cavity behind the panels, which is a great opportunity to install insulation if you wish. If you plan on spending significant time in the shed, installing insulation would be a wise decision, as it will help with temperature control.

If you do decide to install the timber frame flush with the metal frame, you could still use a thin layer of Foilboard between the timber and metal for some insulation, but keep in mind it won't be as effective as using fibreglass batts in a cavity.

You might also like to read through some of the many other discussions we've had on this topic. There's plenty of helpful advice in those that our members have provided.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

A note to our New Zealand members: The use of foil-based insulation products is prohibited.

[LisaAndStu]

Thanks for the reply. Very helpful

information. 

would I be right in assuming that if I use the fibreglass batts that there still needs to be a space between those and the metal shed wall? I think I read somewhere that then minimises risk of mould forming on the insulation?

thanks again.

Stu

[MitchellMc]

Depending on your climate, that might be an issue @LisaAndStu. You could install a vapour barrier between the shed wall and the insulation to combat this. A gap if you can achieve it is always good as it thermally isolate the insulation from the hot/cold sheeting.

Mitchell

[Poe]

Hi Lisa I’m joanne, Poe is my nick name, I’m wondering how you got on with you job lining the shed, any advice much appreciated, 

regards

jo

[JacobZ]

Hi Joanne (@Poe),

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, it is wonderful to have you with us.

Allow me to tag @LisaAndStu so they are notified of your question. Hopefully they will respond shortly.

If you wanted specific advice or had questions about your own project, I'd suggest starting your own post with a few photos and a description of what you are trying to achieve. 

The Workshop community is always willing to help.

Jacob

[AlanM52]

Hi @LisaAndStu,

Here are some photos which will hopefully give you some ideas of how I mounted MDF and Laminated Particleboard to the walls in one corner of the workshop. You could do the tool board thing for all sections of the walls.

MDF tool board.

      

Small brackets and the board is spaced off the wall (right photo) with strips of timber.

  

Bottom corners.

Laminated particleboard below for powerpoints that runs around the corner below the window.

  

  

   

Here is some more info:
https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/t5/Garage-and-Shed/How-to-line-and-insulate-Colorbond-garden-sh...

Cheers

[LisaAndStu]

Hi,

I’ve been on here and asked questions about framing and lining my shed before, but have never got around to actually starting the project. So I’m giving it a go this Christmas holidays! 

my plan is to frame inside with timber, and, get electrical redone and add PowerPoints where needed, and add in insulation to cool it down during summer. At this stage I plan to cover the frame with plywood, but open to gyprock if it makes sense…

i have a few questions

1. what is the best timber to use for the framing? I had previously been told H3 outdoor pine however if it is all going to be inside the shed, do I need to use H3?

2. do I need to seal all gaps that let outside air in? Couple of pictures below. At ground level I definitely want to seal, but do I need to seal the gaps where the roof is bolted to the frame? We’ve got a few geckos and skinks I want to keep out. Also, what is best to use to seal these? See pictures below. 

 

 

I’ll start with these questions, but assume there will be plenty more to come!

thanks

Stu

[JacobZ]

Hi @LisaAndStu,

I've added this post to your original as it provides some context that will be helpful for our readers.

As the frame would technically be indoors, H2 framing should be fine as long as the bottom plate is not in direct contact with the concrete slab below. This can be achieved by attaching plascourse to the underside of the bottom plate.

Sealing up any gaps will help keep the weather and things like insects and rodents out. The gaps at the roof can be filled with Suntuf Black Greca Foam Infill or whichever profile best suits the corrugations. Once this foam is in place, you can seal around it with Sikaflex 11FC Purform, preferably from the outside, to create an airtight seal.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Jacob